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Big Medicine is the most challending line on the Rosebud Wall, rising straight up below the jutting gray prow that looms over the center of the cliff. This one is markedly more difficult than Sweat Lodge. The route begins very easily with big jugs on the slab. As the wall steepens, the difficulty increases, surmounting a series of bulges to some funky gastons and underclings that deliver you to an arm thread just below the lip of the wall. Rest well here as the finish is the real crux. Small, non-positive holds and technical moves lead over the bulge and onto the unnerving gray slab, where a few more insecure moves must be made to reach the anchor.
Big Medicine is the 5th route from the left, or third from the right, beginning just left of the tree that grows at the base of the wall.
Bolts, Chain Anchor
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Though I'd done this route several years before, this past weekend it took me as many tries to do this as Kootenai Crusier...UGH it is kind of hard and in your face at the top and different than your usual Sitting Bull fare.