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Big Meadows
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Little Black Cliff 
Lower Tier 
Upper Tier 

Big Meadows 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,700'
Lat, Long: 37.552, -106.7804 Map
Page Views: 2,661. Good page?   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 7, 2008

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Jack Hunt heading for the topout on the FA.

Description 

This area has enough single pitch ice and mixed lines to keep you amused for a day or two. Most climbs are short but maximum value for the listed grade. Descents are either walk offs around the cliffs or raps.

The routes are mostly melt-fed so they don't form up till January most years. All the climbing is in the sun so even on cold days it is pleasant here.

The approach is level and relatively short but you will want snowshoes since it is Wolf Creek Pass!

Jack Hunt's "Life By The Drop" is the authoritative guide for the area. There are a few routes here that are new and not in the book.


Getting There 

There are 3 areas

Little Black Cliff- a few fun mixed routes. No avy danger.
Lower Tier- has the most routes, some ice, some mixed. Possible avy danger from above immediately after storms. Snow stabilizes quickly with warm temps.
Upper Tier- 4 moderate lines, all eye catchers. In reality they are shorter than they first appear. Possible avy danger on approach and descent immediately after storms. Snow stabilizes quickly with warm temps.

To get there, drive West on US 160 from South Fork until you are about to cross the South Fork of the Rio Grande. You will see a Forest Service sign for Big Meadows on the right- turn here. You have gone a few hundred yards too far if you enter a tunnel.

The road is plowed for 1/8 mile. Park here and look up road. You will see the Little Black Cliff about 300 yds ahead. To reach the two tiers, you hike just past the Little Black Cliff and either stay right on the old road, not crossing the bridge, and contour up the valley for 1/8 - 1/4 mile to the base of the Lower Tier. The upper Tier is above you. An alternate approach (if the river is frozen) is to continue up the main road (always packed) until across the stream from the Lower Tier. Cross wherever you think is best. This option lets you scope out the climbs a little better.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Meadows:
Unknown   M3     Mixed, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Lower Tier
Jab Cross Hook   WI5- M5-     Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Lower Tier
Crawl Space aka Plumber's Crack   M4     Mixed, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Lower Tier
Bob and Weave   WI3-4 M4-     Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Lower Tier
Highjacked   WI5-     Ice, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Lower Tier
Headwaters of Denial   WI5 M5     Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Little Black Cliff
Punishment for Gluttons   M6+     Mixed, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Lower Tier
Married With Children   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Lower Tier
Damn If I Know aka Damifino   M4     Mixed, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Little Black Cliff
Straight Line Blast   WI5- M5     Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Lower Tier
Jack Stout Memorial Route   WI3- M4     Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Upper Tier
Browse More Classics in Big Meadows

Featured Route For Big Meadows
Bob and Weave (left) and Crawl Space.

Bob and Weave WI3-4 M4-  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Lower Tier
Climb mixed or thin ice to get to the good ice up in the corner....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO