|The Highlands aka Highlander
BMOC begins around the corner from STBU with a bit of scramble downhill. This route has several thin cruxes from 5.10 to 5.11 in the first 60 feet. BOMC gains the same overlap as STBU, 60 feet off the ground. Haul up the overlap to face a difficult finger traverse that winds left and then back right to come back to the plumb-line from the anchors. The rock is very good. The moves are difficult but well protected, and the line has a lot of continuity. If it did not face South/East BMOC would undoubtedly see a lot more traffic than it does. I thought that The Great Defoliator did a fine job with this one.
QDs only. This 100 foot route needs about a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. BMOC needs a 60m rope for descent, or bring two.
From: Longmont, Co.
Oct 18, 2011
This route provides a nice escape from the crowds on a busy day at Highlander crag. The first 60 feet is O.K., mellow climbing, to gain the ledge/overlap. Then a reachy clip leads to the cruxy final 40 feet of great climbing to the anchor.
A bit of loose rock still exists, but it can be easily avoided.
|By Mark Wiranowski|
May 24, 2012
Somewhat dirty - looks like it gets water down the face at the bottom. The crux is very bouldery and a little hard for the grade. I started climbing STBU by accident, thinking it was this climb. Really, since the crux is the bouldery overlap (with a ledge rest below it), a nicer overall climb, without sacrificing the grade, might be the first half of STBU, followed by the crux on BMOC.