Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Highlands aka Highlander
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Head 
Big Man On Campus 
Blue Sky Mining 
Burning Chrome 
Dirt Me 
Drop Zone 
Gear Head 
Get a Job 
Get A Life 
Get Insurance 
Herb- A- Med- Veg- A- Matic 
Highlander 
Job Review 
Job Security 
Leap of Faith 
Learning to Crawl 
Lord of the Rings 
Micro Chip 
Neo-Quasi Bugaloo 
Not One Of Us 
Outsider, The 
Peer 42 
Peer Pressure 
Peer Review 
Red Tag Hag 
Resume 
Smack That Bitch Up 
Stiff Upper Lip 
Tarzan 
Wind Machine 

Big Man On Campus 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tod Anderson, 1997
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 27, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

BMOC begins around the corner from STBU with a bit of scramble downhill. This route has several thin cruxes from 5.10 to 5.11 in the first 60 feet. BOMC gains the same overlap as STBU, 60 feet off the ground. Haul up the overlap to face a difficult finger traverse that winds left and then back right to come back to the plumb-line from the anchors. The rock is very good. The moves are difficult but well protected, and the line has a lot of continuity. If it did not face South/East BMOC would undoubtedly see a lot more traffic than it does. I thought that The Great Defoliator did a fine job with this one.


Protection 

QDs only. This 100 foot route needs about a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. BMOC needs a 60m rope for descent, or bring two.



Comments on Big Man On Campus Add Comment
Show which comments
By CHRIS.T
From: Longmont, Co.
Oct 18, 2011

This route provides a nice escape from the crowds on a busy day at Highlander crag. The first 60 feet is O.K., mellow climbing, to gain the ledge/overlap. Then a reachy clip leads to the cruxy final 40 feet of great climbing to the anchor.

A bit of loose rock still exists, but it can be easily avoided.

By Mark Wiranowski
May 24, 2012

Somewhat dirty - looks like it gets water down the face at the bottom. The crux is very bouldery and a little hard for the grade. I started climbing STBU by accident, thinking it was this climb. Really, since the crux is the bouldery overlap (with a ledge rest below it), a nicer overall climb, without sacrificing the grade, might be the first half of STBU, followed by the crux on BMOC.