Big Man On Campus
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BMOC begins around the corner from STBU
with a bit of scramble downhill. This route has several thin cruxes from 5.10 to 5.11 in the first 60 feet. BOMC gains the same overlap as STBU
, 60 feet off the ground. Haul up the overlap to face a difficult finger traverse that winds left and then back right to come back to the plumb-line from the anchors. The rock is very good. The moves are difficult but well protected, and the line has a lot of continuity. If it did not face South/East BMOC would undoubtedly see a lot more traffic than it does. I thought that The Great Defoliator did a fine job with this one.
QDs only. This 100 foot route needs about a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. BMOC needs a 60m rope for descent, or bring two.
From: Longmont, Co.
Oct 18, 2011
This route provides a nice escape from the crowds on a busy day at Highlander crag. The first 60 feet is O.K., mellow climbing, to gain the ledge/overlap. Then a reachy clip leads to the cruxy final 40 feet of great climbing to the anchor.
A bit of loose rock still exists, but it can be easily avoided.
By Mark Wiranowski
May 24, 2012
Somewhat dirty - looks like it gets water down the face at the bottom. The crux is very bouldery and a little hard for the grade. I started climbing STBU by accident, thinking it was this climb. Really, since the crux is the bouldery overlap (with a ledge rest below it), a nicer overall climb, without sacrificing the grade, might be the first half of STBU, followed by the crux on BMOC.