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Big Lebowsky S 
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Big Lebowsky 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson in Spring 2004 (12d A0). F.F.A.: Colby Rickard on August 10, 2013.
Page Views: 752
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Aug 20, 2013

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Description 

This climb ascends a two-tiered overhang via small holds. Climb 10 feet up a ramp corner & hand traverse left on a shelf, past the 1st bolt. Gain a good ledge & the 2nd bolt. Traverse right a couple moves under an overhang to a jug & clip 3rd bolt. Powerful moves on small edges lead to bigger edges over the lip. Traverse left, past 4th bolt, to a finger lock in a horizontal seam. The second crux steps over the first roof & reaches holds above the second roof. Move back right to last bolt. Tiny edges lead over the roof up the slab to the anchor.

I bolted this route in Spring 2004. Over the years, I have worked on this route, done all the moves, but never come close to redpointing it. I belayed Colby Rickard who redpointed this powerful route on his 6th attempt (2nd try on day 3).

Location 

Start from the ground below the large ledge where "Hamster Kung Fu" starts.

Protection 

6 bolts / 2 rings.


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By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Apr 12, 2015

This route is really good for a short, bouldery route. It has just two hard moves, and I found a secret heel hook that made them very doable. It may be a bit soft for the grade given, fun route though!
By Mark Rolofson
Apr 16, 2015

Just two hard moves! I wish, but I do think the first crux has two moves that are more powerful than the rest of the route. The second crux seems pretty hard, too. Must be nice to be young & strong. My advice is you should stop wasting your time climbing 5.13s. There is a world of 5.14 & 5.15 climbs that you might not find so soft for the grade. I believe it's for you. Leave the 5.13b climbs for us old guys. This one feels hard from the 3rd bolt to the anchor. Good job sending!
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 17, 2015

No offense, Mark, but could it be that you're getting a bit soft with your grading? Tigers Woody, Buster Brown, Double Dominatrix, and Deep Water Horizon are all great routes, but much easier than advertised....
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Apr 17, 2015

Either way, it's a cool route! I really liked the movement climbing over the first bulge. It's a great find, and I only wish it were longer.
By Mark Rolofson
Jun 2, 2015

Monty, I deleted my last two comments. I suggest you do the same. Why? I feel we have digressed, & comments on this page should be about this route. Kevin has sent the route & thus earned the right to call it soft for the grade or downrate it if he chooses. I think you should post your YDS rating opinion after you have redpointed this route, rather than dish out broad insulting statements based on 4 of my many routes. I haven't redpointed this route either, so perhaps my opinion will change once I do. I did belay Colby on the FFA, & he didn't disagree with my suggested rating. It seems as hard as the handful of .13bs I have done & harder than any of numerous .13a routes. As a general rule, I don't rate or disagree with a climb's rating until I have sent it.
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 11, 2015

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