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Little Dude
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Big Lebowsky S 
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Big Lebowsky 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson in Spring 2004 (12d A0). F.F.A.: Colby Rickard on August 10, 2013.
Page Views: 486
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Aug 20, 2013

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Description 

This climb ascends a two-tiered overhang via small holds. Climb 10 feet up a ramp corner & hand traverse left on a shelf, past the 1st bolt. Gain a good ledge & the 2nd bolt. Traverse right a couple moves under an overhang to a jug & clip 3rd bolt. Powerful moves on small edges lead to bigger edges over the lip. Traverse left, past 4th bolt, to a finger lock in a horizontal seam. The second crux steps over the first roof & reaches holds above the second roof. Move back right to last bolt. Tiny edges lead over the roof up the slab to the anchor.

I bolted this route in Spring 2004. Over the years, I have worked on this route, done all the moves, but never come close to redpointing it. I belayed Colby Rickard who redpointed this powerful route on his 6th attempt (2nd try on day 3).

Location 

Start from the ground below the large ledge where "Hamster Kung Fu" starts.

Protection 

6 bolts / 2 rings.


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By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Apr 12, 2015

This route is really good for a short, bouldery route. It has just two hard moves, and I found a secret heel hook that made them very doable. There is a reinforced hold that I didn't even touch, maybe if you're short you could use it. A bit soft for the grade given, fun though!
By Mark Rolofson
Apr 16, 2015

Just two hard moves! I wish, but I do think the first crux has two moves that are more powerful than the rest of the route. The second crux seems pretty hard, too. Must be nice to be young & strong. My advice is you should stop wasting your time climbing 5.13s. There is a world of 5.14 & 5.15 climbs that you might not find so soft for the grade. I believe it's for you. Leave the 5.13b climbs for us old guys. This one feels hard from the 3rd bolt to the anchor. Good job sending!
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 17, 2015

No offense, Mark, but could it be that you're getting a bit soft with your grading? Tigers Woody, Buster Brown, Double Dominatrix, and Deep Water Horizon are all great routes, but much easier than advertised....
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Apr 17, 2015

Either way, it's a cool route! I really liked the movement climbing over the first bulge. It's a great find, and I only wish it were longer.
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