||Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 380', Grade II
|Original: ||C2 [details]|
|FA: ||Jay Miller, Andy Roberts 10/98|
|Page Views: ||1,051|
|Submitted By: ||A. Roberts on Nov 15, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: View of the route from the east rim. The route sta...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
When we climbed this we were in aid mode, but future parties may have luck freeing (some of) this.
Pitch 1: Climb 20' up a loose crack system, then work into a right facing dihedral. Continue high enough to be able to tension traverse right, into the opposite left facing dihedral, and belay under a roof. 160' Natural belay.
Pitch 2: Continue up the right side of a roof, to gain a clean right facing dihedral, which is followed past two short wide sections, up to a 2 bolt belay. 150'
Pitch 3: The money pitch. Gain the ledge above the anchor, then follow a widening crack out left under a spectacular roof. Once up and over the roof, continue back right to a flat ledge, belay here to avoid rope drag. 45'
Pitch 4: Traverse 15' right to find a crack leading to the top, 25' up. There is a tree 15' back from the ledge to use as an anchor. Then walk 200' or less to the campsite!
For the most part, the rock is really clean, except for the very bottom.
If you are approaching from the campsite on the west side, walk down the old cow trail, passing Cogswell to the North and head to the wall on the left. (same side of the canyon as the tower)The route is on the outside corner of the wall. Only carry down with you what you plan on climbing with, because the route tops out a very short walk from the campsite.
I don't really remember the rack. Since there are long aid pitches I would bring 3 sets of cams, from tcu's up to some large cams.
Jay Miller hanging it out on the 3rd pitch roof.
Looking down the 2nd pitch, a nice clean dihedral.
View of Cogswell Tower from up on the route.