Big Horn Wall Rock Climbing
View of the Big Horn wall
The Big Horn Wall is the main attraction at Sitting Bull Falls, featuring some of New Mexico's most difficult routes. This area is occasionally heralded as the best sport climbing crag in the state, despite the limited selection of lines. But what this crag lacks in quantity, it compensates for in quality. Every line on the wall would be a 4 star route at any other crag in New Mexico.
Generally speaking, routes here are steep jughauls, with long moves between large holds and "active" rests that add up to a building pump that tends to culminate in a mad-dash for the anchor and a desparate clip. Unfortunately the easier lines are getting polished, but as more of the locals are diverted to Last Chance Canyon, this problem likely will not get much worse.
The crag faces north and receives virtually no sun. Heat-tolerant folks will be able to climb here on all but the warmest days, while those in search of 'redpoint conditions' should plan to visit in winter.
Bees are occasionally found on this wall as well, although there are no known hives on this wall.
This wall is visible from the Sitting Bull Falls State Park parking lot, however, the wall is further away than it appears, and the approach is a bit convoluted in order to protect the delicate environment located just beyond the artificial grass lawn, 1000 square foot brick restroom facility, and concrete and pavement parking lot.
From the pay station, follow the concrete path SE toward the falls for about 30 yds, where a well-defined dirt path signed for the top of the waterfall branches off to the right. Ascend laboriously up the steep winding trail until it flattens out. After the trail levels out, the trail bends to the west, where a faint climber's trail diverges to the right. After 20 yds the Rosebud Wall and Big Horn Wall will be visible. There are two possible downclimbs to reach the cliff, one is 4th class, the other 2nd.
To reach the Big Horn Wall, climb down to the Rosebud Wall, and traverse the base westwardly to the BH Wall.
Weather station 3.7 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Big Horn Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Big Horn Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Big Horn Wall:
Tribal War 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Big Horn Wall
Kootenai Cruiser 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a NM
: New Mexico, other Southern ...
: ... : Big Horn Wall
This is the second route from the right and starts off the high point of the slab at the base of the wall and heads up and left, Custer's Last Stand heads up and right.Make long moves right from the start on holds that are somehow not as good as on the other routes. An awkward sequence leads up into the bulge and a kneebar to get over to a good pocket. Take a deep breath and move up on some smaller holds, the left of which will eat your finger tips for lunch. A big move to a small but positive h...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Getting Dylan ready to take the king swing from th...
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 11, 2007
The route numbering provided in the "location" part of some of the route descriptions is off. The correct route order, from Left to Right is:
1. On the Prowl, 5.10d
2. Smoke Signals, 5.11b
3. Ghost Dancers, 5.12a, Ghost Dancers Extension
4. Counting Coup, 5.12b
5. It is Not Necessary for Eagles to Be Crows, 5.12c
6. Tribal War, 5.12c
7. Broken Arrows, 5.12d
8. Project (quick link on 2nd or 3rd bolt)
9. Kootenai Cruiser, 5.13+
10. Custer's Last Stand, 5.13b