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Big gear in the South East?
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By Javier L
From Asheville, NC
Aug 9, 2012
Bermuda, DWS

I have a decent rack including the old BD C4 # 4.5, 5 and a set of tricams up to # 6 or so. Where can I use them down here? I've been hoarding these for a couple years now and I need to use em' or lose em'.


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By Sam Stephens
Aug 9, 2012
Top half of Melifluous

Command Performance, Mommas Squeeze Box, Crescent Crack... I'm sure there's more but that's the first three I can think of at the New.

There are actually a good bit off OWs at the Red too.


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By Chad Wagner
Aug 9, 2012
me

Get those big boys out! Want to try levitation? Go to the red. Pistol ridge has Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. Indian Creek(red) has Better Red then Dead, and Country Lovin. Purple Valley has Burden of Dreams. Muscle Beach has a lot of classics. If you need a partner for the pain let me know. I could use one. No one wants to climb that shit where I'm from.


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By Javier L
From Asheville, NC
Aug 10, 2012
Bermuda, DWS

The New is definitely in my sights, thanks. As for the Red, in all honesty, if I make the drive out there I'll probably be clipping bolts, eating Miguel's, and throwing wobblers like everyone else (so I hear). I've only been once but from Asheville (moving there soon) it'll definetely be closer, so who knows. If I get out there I'll definitely keep you in mind.


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Aug 10, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Lunar Debris and Crescent Moon @ Endless come to mind immediately. The nice thing about these two, is they're right next to each other, they'll both eat up the big stuff, and one's a .7 and one's a .9 so if mid 10s are your limit on gear, the .7 makes a nice warmup, and the .9 should make a nice onsight.

Same thing with Underfling and Butterbeans @ Bridge Buttress. Almost right next to each other, both low/mid .10 and unless you hit a super busy weekend in the fall like Labor Day (and even then, you won't find that many people on trad lines .10 and up) you should have your pick on the routes that take wide stuff.

These last two are above my paygrade on gear at the moment, but I drooled when I looked at them. I'm sure there are plenty more at the New, these are just ones off the top of my head. You could probably climb wide stuff for three days straight there and never get on the same thing twice- just a matter of how many different crags you're willing to hit.

If it were me, I'd keep the big stuff. You're not likely to lug it around everywhere, but if you know you're going to get on something that might take a big piece to avoid runout, it's definitely worth the weight. I usually only bring mine if I have beta on a specific route that takes big stuff. I hope you keep 'em personally.


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Aug 10, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

Ha! Crescent Crack. Remember the old guide book that said that this could be led with small gear? I fell for it. Nothing like unintentional soloing! Better have more than one 5 and 6 for that unless you want to walk it up a bunch.

I also liked Crack a Smile at Endless. Can use a five and six on that.


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By James Arnold
From Chattanooga
Aug 10, 2012
Chew toyed

Speaking of the New I have been wanting to get to S. Nuttall, for starters on The Abyss ..."the most intimidating 5.10 pitch you've ever seen..." then working over to A-holes and Elbows (wide but has some bolts) but can never get anyone to have half an inkling to get out there, justifiably I suppose.


I should have some time in the fall to get up there and/or the Red. I have tried to organize an RRG "Bloodfest" for 2 or 3 years but no one answers phones/pms/txts or is at Miguels (mysteriously disappearing) when it comes to punching out wide on a specific day...Chad, Javier, anyone else, down?

Agree with Jake, keep the bigs, never know when you might get the big bug.


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By nbrown
From western NC
Aug 10, 2012
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

Hey Javier, feel free to give me a shout when you get in the asheville area. Haven't been in a while, but I have spent a fair amount of time on the wide stuff at the New. Also done some fun wide stuff in BSF, which is only about 3 hours away (as opposed to the new @ 4+).


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By Javier L
From Asheville, NC
Aug 10, 2012
Bermuda, DWS

Thanks everyone. I've been thinking of losing the gear and now I'm thinking of getting more, haha. I'll wait and see how it goes on a few of these routes at the New. I feel fairly comfortable at the 10 grade but I've not done any OW. At least I can't remember any OW routes under my belt. Now I have a tick list to work on! I'm taking this September off between jobs and I think a few days can definitely be dedicated to OW. Anyone else free?

Nathan, I'll definitely hit you up when I'm out there. Thanks.


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By Sam Stephens
Aug 13, 2012
Top half of Melifluous

csproul wrote:
Ha! Crescent Crack. Remember the old guide book that said that this could be led with small gear? I fell for it. Nothing like unintentional soloing! Better have more than one 5 and 6 for that unless you want to walk it up a bunch. I also liked Crack a Smile at Endless. Can use a five and six on that.


Crack a Smile is tons of fun!


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By William Rhyne
From clayton, nc
Aug 16, 2012

Javier whats going on buddy. Im into the wide thing too. I have been looking at butterbean, (10a) stuck in another dimension ( 11a ) and optical illusion (11c) I havent been up any of these yet it just looked to me to have some wide sections on them. Ill be up there in 2 weeks maybe we'll run into each other.


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By Javier L
From Asheville, NC
Aug 18, 2012
Bermuda, DWS

Hey Will, do you have any free time in September? I'm free most of it and looking to climb mid week. I'm also planning on going to the NRG Craggin Classic. Are you going? Once I settle in Asheville I'll probably be looking to climb out at Rumbling and Looking Glass.


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By Chad Wagner
Aug 26, 2012
me

Ya James, I'm down for a blood fest. Lets link up for some fall madness. Im supporting doubles in the OW size and possibly triples by then. Looking forward to it.


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By Javier L
From Asheville, NC
Sep 4, 2012
Bermuda, DWS

I'll be at the New from the 12th through the 17th or so. Anyone else going to be there?


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Sep 6, 2012
El Chorro

Stuck in another dimension is sick, and maybe doable with your rack. Dont let the grade turn you off. If you can get off the ground, you can clip the chains.

Also, get on the womb and dum dee dum dum at LG. not much offwidth, but it feels like a lot.

Good luck with the time off and move. Jealous. Tell the raleigh crowd i say whats up!


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By Javier L
From Asheville, NC
Sep 8, 2012
Bermuda, DWS

Hey Ryan, good to hear from you. Will mentioned "stuck in another dimension" too so it's on my list. If you're ever get back out here hit me up.


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By davidbr
Sep 19, 2012

Would anyone be up for some wide fun this coming week? Think I've got Sunday, Monday, Tuesday (Sept. the 23rd, 24th, 25th) free. Either the New or the Red...


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