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Trojan Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete of Troy 
Big Deal 
Big Traffic 
Devils, The 
Easy traverse 
Edges Of Doom 
Heavy Traffic 
Old Soft Hsu 
Steve's Traverse 
Trojan Arete, The 
Troy Lite 
Unsorted Routes:

Big Deal 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6- Font: 7A [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 658
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Jan 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Sorry Sean, this is at your expense. But the nickn...

Description 

This is an evil, evil climb. I think it should be re-named "Three moves to Hell". The holds are small, the moves are big, and the crux demands a very particular body position. The crux is also the throw to the last hold, so with each try you have to do two big pulls just to get there.
An excellent and devious climb to be sure.

Location 

Start on the obvious crimp rail to the right of Heavy Traffic. Make a big first move up and right to a small gaston. Continue up the slightly bulging face.
The shorter-inclined will either need to do an extra move or two to reach the rail (and likely bump the grade a little in the process), or have to fold pads. I'm 6'0" and I can just reach.

Protection 

One pad will do you fine.


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Opening move on Big Deal.
Opening move on Big Deal.

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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 21, 2011
rating: V5 6C

Last I checked, the guidebook calls this V5. It's hard, yes, but still V5 in my opinion.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 20, 2011
rating: V5 6C

... but I do understand the "Three Moves To Hell" title suggested by Nick. There are days when this devious architecture of bad crimps makes me want to cry. Then there are days when it seems manageable. Who or what decides which day will be which? Dark Forces, obviously.

That, and a nice cool breeze with evening temps.