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 ADVANCED
Two Pines Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Deal T,TR 
Brother Without a Brain TR 
Crosstown Traffic T 
Dyspepsia T,TR 
Full Stop T,TR 
Grotto, The T,TR 
Hypoglycemia T,TR 
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 
L. S. D. T,TR 
Moderation T,TR 
Mouse Tracks T 
Mouse's Misery T,TR 
Mouse's Tail T,TR 
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 
Rack, The T,TR 
Reprieve TR 
Schizophrenia T,TR 
Solar Eclipse T,TR 
Thoroughfare T 
Touch & Go T,TR 
Vacillation T,TR 

Big Deal 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: First Lead: Pete Cleveland
Season: 3+
Page Views: 639
Submitted By: James M Schroeder on Sep 22, 2006

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Big Deal TR

Description 

This route starts on Full Stop, but continues straight up the crack to the right of the "Ear".

Attain the "Ear" on Full Stop and work your way up to the slanting rail above it. Then get your feet as high as possible on this rail and work your way to the right (balancy). Look for the crescent shaped foothold out right (stretchy), and use it to bump your right hand up to the second "Ear" making sure to use one of the best thumb-catches anywhere. Use this side pull to surmount the mini-roof and finish as for Full Stop.

Protection 

Could be protected with small gear (yellow or blue tcu) at the crux, pretty much standard other than that.


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By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Jul 30, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Pro is not so good on this. I don't recommend an onsight lead. I tried, then bailed onto Full Stop. The crux is protected by a #4 BD C4 in the elephant ear 12 feet or more below. Part-way through the crux, the only gear I could fish in (even while hanging) was a #2 brassie.