Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl)  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Pat Ament & Carl Diehl, 1975 Submitted By:  Tony B on May 27, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Find this climb as the 'tower' of rock protruding from the West Face of Castle Rock, just above Polyester Leisure Suit. This is visible at the right hand edge of the West face route in the attached photograph.

Climb the Big Deal Pinnacle by doing the first pitch of another route, either Polyester Leisure Suit, or P1 of the West Face, or a crack system just left of Polyester, but right of the wide slot next to West Face. I suggest the latter of these options to cover more new territory it is perhaps 5.7 & protects well.

After arriving at one of the two trees, both with anchors, climb up the center face of the pinnacle to access some cracks, or go to the right-hand side, and climb a perfect hands and wide-hands corner for 30' to reach a rising left-hand traverse at a horizontal. (This can be intercepted from the face below as well, apparently). From the left edge of this, move up the edge of the tower and cross back right on another rising traverse on a horizontal--both protect well enough to be safe, but could be exciting. Finish via cracks on the right side of the pinnacle or on the west slab to the summit.

There is no good belay on the summit, but on the shoulder to the climber's right of it, there are cracks, blocks, horns, and a good belay seat.

To descend, finish to the summit on the West Face and do the standard descent, or scramble down to the trees below (climber's left, a 5.6 or 5.7 downclimb) or to the anchors above Bailey's Overhang or Curving Crack (easier?). Then rap off with a single rope.

Protection 

A standard rack to 3.5" with extras in the hands to wide-hands sizes. Several long slings.