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 ADVANCED
Hanging Chain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battery Brides T,S 
Big Corner T 
Excavation Crack T 
Fairhope S 
Hanging Chain T 
Krispy Kreme T,S 
Lessons Learned T 
Little People T 
Love Wig S 
Organized Confusion S 
Plastic Fish T,S 
Remote Control Cockroach T 
Sly Corner (Naysayer) T 
Sly Truths T,S 
Spiders & Snakes T 
Spry Look S 
Talk This Way T 
Walk This Way T 
Weed-wack Crack T 
Zealot Shout - 1st pitch T 

Big Corner 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Tom Howard
Season: Winter
Page Views: 473
Submitted By: BruceBurgessNC on Dec 31, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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A well known NC climber about to tame the choss. P...

Description 

A unique climb for the area. Not the greatest rock quality, but the moves and protection are really good. Great training for your next alpine adventure. Jam up left-most right facing dihedral on the right edge of the Hanging Chain Buttress. After about 60 feet at a triangle block, you encounter the 5.10c crux traverse that takes you into the corner system to your right. Be sure to save #3 and #2 camalots to protect the next testy section up and around a small roof (5.10b/c). Continue up and right (avoiding a hollow flake or two) to a large block with many slings. It's about 110' to the ground from there.

Location 

2nd route right of Hanging Chain. one 70m rope will get you down fine.

Protection 

medium-large stoppers, tricams. Double set 0 TCU - #3 Camalot. Save #2, #3 Camalot and 0 and 1 TCUs for after the traverse. If a 3rd will be following the pitch, the 2nd should trail a rope and reclip gear. It would be difficult to reclip gear in the left crack if lowering from the top anchor.


Comments on Big Corner Add Comment
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By nbrown
From: western NC
Apr 5, 2013

There really wasn't much bad rock until the end, and even then it wasn't all that bad. Definitely a fun style of climbing that is hard to come by around here.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Feb 6, 2014

Any idea of the mixed routes on the face to the right of Big Corner (before the flake)?
By nbrown
From: western NC
Feb 6, 2014

Jeff,
I think you're talking about the routes "Lessons Learned" and "Talk This Way". There is also an obscure all gear route between these and "Big Corner", but I don't know much more than that about it.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Feb 7, 2014

Routes
Routes

Coming from the left...Big Corner (big corner), Lessons Learned (face) and Talk This Way (face).