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Hanging Chain
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Hanging Chain 
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Little People 
Love Wig 
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Sly Corner (Naysayer) 
Sly Truths 
Spiders & Snakes 
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Talk This Way 
Walk This Way 
Weed-wack Crack 
Zealot Shout - 1st pitch 

Big Corner 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Tom Howard
Season: Winter
Page Views: 390
Submitted By: BruceBurgessNC on Dec 31, 2012
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A well known NC climber about to tame the choss. P...
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Description 

A unique climb for the area. Not the greatest rock quality, but the moves and protection are really good. Great training for your next alpine adventure. Jam up left-most right facing dihedral on the right edge of the Hanging Chain Buttress. After about 60 feet at a triangle block, you encounter the 5.10c crux traverse that takes you into the corner system to your right. Be sure to save #3 and #2 camalots to protect the next testy section up and around a small roof (5.10b/c). Continue up and right (avoiding a hollow flake or two) to a large block with many slings. It's about 110' to the ground from there.


Location 

2nd route right of Hanging Chain. one 70m rope will get you down fine.


Protection 

medium-large stoppers, tricams. Double set 0 TCU - #3 Camalot. Save #2, #3 Camalot and 0 and 1 TCUs for after the traverse. If a 3rd will be following the pitch, the 2nd should trail a rope and reclip gear. It would be difficult to reclip gear in the left crack if lowering from the top anchor.



Comments on Big Corner Add Comment
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By nbrown
From: western NC
Apr 5, 2013

There really wasn't much bad rock until the end, and even then it wasn't all that bad. Definitely a fun style of climbing that is hard to come by around here.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Feb 6, 2014

Any idea of the mixed routes on the face to the right of Big Corner (before the flake)?

By nbrown
From: western NC
Feb 6, 2014

Jeff,
I think you're talking about the routes "Lessons Learned" and "Talk This Way". There is also an obscure all gear route between these and "Big Corner", but I don't know much more than that about it.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Feb 7, 2014

Routes
Routes

Coming from the left...Big Corner (big corner), Lessons Learned (face) and Talk This Way (face).