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Big Chief Arete 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jon Fox?
Page Views: 2,607
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 27, 2003
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Probably the best line I got on at the cliff, and the tallest. From the notch of the north pass, come down past the first major formation of dihedrals and aretes to the second formation, there you will pass an arete of considerable height. There are two routes on or near it, the left-most being 'Headrush' (1-move 10+) and the right most being Big Chief Arete. B.C.A. climbs up and right past bolts though various facets of face, dihedral, overhang, and slab and then curves back left toward the top of Headrush, passing within clipping distance of the anchors of it at about 80-90 feet up. This can serve as an alternate belay/rappel unless you have 15 draws and 2 ropes (a 60m rope doesn't even come close).The climbing to this anchor is probably 5.10b or c. Beyond this anchor, moving up and right you will see a bolt, and a placement for a 1" cam (can be nice). The moves to pass this section are long reaches from underclings and a so-so hand jam in a flaring crack/slot while moving right through the overhang (5.11a) and onto the face above. Clip a few more bolts on the face to reach the anchor above.

Rap with 2 ropes, or in 2 raps, or *possibly* with a 70M


About 15 QDs if done as one pitch. If stopping at the anchors of Headrush to belay, 10. Either way, haveing a few longer slings is a good idea, as the route and line of bolts is not always direct. a 1" TCU can add pro right at the crux and make the climbing less heady.

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By 426
Mar 12, 2007

I think Jon Fox may have done the FA of this route.

By adam14113
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2010

Awesome climb. Was able to do it with a 70 meter ... and I stress the word barely. My friend had to walk up the hill next to the wall to get me on the ground, be sure to tie a knot in the end of the rope. With the rope stretch gone doing a top rope with a 70 isn't possible.