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Apr 15, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
What are the best big cams to buy that arn't black diamoind, I am talking in the 4-4.5 range. Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 15, 2013
mountainproject.com/images/50/... Siberia
From Birmingham, AL
Joined Sep 14, 2011
45 points
Apr 15, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
not that big, does any one even make big ones excpt BD? Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 15, 2013
wild country friends 5 & 6 Alphonse
From Winter Park
Joined Jul 20, 2010
0 points
Apr 15, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: blah
I just tried to order one from Exclaiber for the shop i work at...no dice the #6 Tech friend is not even in stock with the distributor...wired bliss may still be in the process of making some big cams Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
113 points
Apr 15, 2013
tri-CAMS! GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Apr 15, 2013
Gwut wrote:
What are the best big cams to buy that arn't black diamoind, I am talking in the 4-4.5 range.


The only other option is the Wild Country 5. Not much of a market for the big cams, so only those who sell a ton of other cams get to play. BD and WC are about it. Metolius makes the Supercam that may go to roughly BD 4, but I'm not 100% sure on that.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,408 points
Apr 16, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Running it out on easy slab. "No where is tha...
Why not BD? Frankly, I've never understood the love of the WC #5 and #6. I've had both mind you. What I've witnessed in my grovels in the "wide" are the WC, being single axel, have a tendency to have one side of the cams invert. They just seem to not want to "stay put" in the same way as a dual axel BD. This is especially true when the rope runs on the cam or other general "interference" common with wide grovels. It could certainly be user error of course.
I may have to go re-vist the wide and see if it still holds true with me...
mattm
From TX
Joined Jun 2, 2006
1,283 points
Apr 16, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
John Marsella wrote:
I have a WC #5 and a BD #6. The WC feels "more solid" at more open positions than the BD, but my gripe is that, unless you hold the WC in the correct orientation (ie, with the outside lobes toward your hand) the inside lobes hit my knuckles. I've had the WC try to walk funny while shoving it along, but I chalked that up to user error.


BD cams are over rated, and not cheap, what about Lucky are they making any thing big?
Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 16, 2013
John Wilder wrote:
Metolius makes the Supercam that may go to roughly BD 4, but I'm not 100% sure on that.


Large Supercam range is 68mm to 105mm and the #4 C4 is 66mm to 114mm, so roughly the same.

A #6 DMM Dragon cam is nearly the same as the C4 (68-114mm) and probably more available than the WC's.
Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Joined May 6, 2008
91 points
Apr 16, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Blue Collar Crack.
Allen Corneau wrote:
Large Supercam range is 68mm to 105mm and the #4 C4 is 66mm to 114mm, so roughly the same. A #6 DMM Dragon cam is nearly the same as the C4 (68-114mm) and probably more available than the WC's.

The #6 dragon cam is pretty much a #4 camalot but I really didn't like the fact that it's stem is so short. Makes it difficult to handle IMO.
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
1,563 points
Apr 16, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
Gwut wrote:
BD cams are over rated..


LOL. That must be why so many companies have successfully tried to make larger cams.
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
300 points
Apr 16, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: top of mt. lady washington - rmnp
+1 to some of the weaknesses of WC 5 and 6 Matt and John addressed (tendency of the single axle to invert, especially when the rope runs over the cam and hitting your knuckles as you retract the trigger unless you hold it just right.

I've only used a WC 6 and BD c4 #5 and the old green #5 and my current feelings are that the BD are better.

Could anyone elaborate on advantages of the WC 5 and 6 over BD in addition to John's comment about them "feeling more solid" when tipped out?

Andrew Mayer
Joined Nov 14, 2010
113 points
Apr 16, 2013
How much are you looking to spend? I have a never-been-racked BD #5 (pre C4) for $75 + shipping. Stated range: 107 - 178 mm (4.2 - 7.0 inches) Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,268 points
Apr 16, 2013
Gwut wrote:
BD cams are over rated, and not cheap, what about Lucky are they making any thing big?


So far as I know, Lucky isnt in business anymore. A quick google search shows that they were absorbed by Edelrid some years back- and Edelrid doesnt make pro.

I know alot of people dont like BD for whatever reason, but in the realm of wide cams at this particular moment in time, they are pretty much it. There's been alot of talk about WC redesigning their big cams into the Helium range- i also heard about supplier issues a couple years ago, so maybe in the future you'll have some options for the truly big stuff, but for now, it is what it is.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,408 points
Apr 16, 2013
Andrew Mayer wrote:
Could anyone elaborate on advantages of the WC 5 and 6 over BD in addition to John's comment about them "feeling more solid" when tipped out?


WC Friends are wider and have a better (smaller) camming angle and so grip better. That said on cams this size you are normally not placing them in slick cracks.
patto
Joined Jul 9, 2012
0 points
Administrator
Apr 16, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay
The large Supercam is a fantastic piece of gear. Peter Franzen
From Phoenix, AZ
Joined Jan 1, 2001
4,021 points
Apr 16, 2013
Buy the BD's
What are you really going to want when you get a little over your head ?
David Pneuman
From Western, CO
Joined Oct 6, 2006
14 points
Apr 16, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Stella!
+1 on the super cams. I love them, I just wish they made them bigger. Raul P
Joined Feb 12, 2013
16 points


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