Big Bob's Big Wedge 5.11 V5
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| Type: | Trad, Boulder, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d V5 [details] |
| FA: | Mike Lechlinski |
| Submitted By: | Justin Edl on Dec 22, 2006 |
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Big Bobs Big Wedge, Joshua Tree National Park
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Description This is one of the best crack problems anywhere. It starts out tight offwidth/big fists and fires out the slightly rising roof for thirty+ more feet of hands and fists, culminating in a wide exit that people overcome with various techniques probably mostly dependent on their hand size. The last moves can be committing.
This should be on every wide-crack climber's tick list for Joshua Tree. The 5.11 rating is what's given in the Vogel guide, while the V5 is what's given in the bouldering guide (That guy also only gave it three out of five stars. Guess he doesn't do much crack bouldering). Personally I would lean toward the V5 end of things, which would approximately translate to a YDS grade of 5.12. Absolutely spectacular!
Location Park at Live Oak near the oak tree and head down into the little valley on the other side of the formation. Big Bob's Big Wedge is under the huge unmistakable boulder nestled at the base of one of the formations.
Protection A couple of pads/spotters are nice, especially if you leavitate the lip, as you will be upside down a ways off the ground and it's easy for your feet to get stuck and your too far away from your spotters for them to help you.
Kicking up into the crux. Photo by Jason Kruk.
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brian attempting the amnesia onsite
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| Comments on Big Bob's Big Wedge |
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By Justin Edl
Dec 22, 2006
| Any of you older cranksters want to fill us in on the name for this one? |
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Apr 11, 2007
rating: 5.12 V5
| Let's see... Big Bob..... hmmm.... figure that out on your own..... Big Wedge.... British slang right from Jerry Moffatts lips.... "wedge" is the same as "penis".... so, there ya go.
You can also hang a toprope cord at the lip and have someone clip you in when you get there to protect the lip encounter should things go bad (as they probably will) |
By Justin Edl
Apr 16, 2007
| Thanks Russ. I always wondered about the name because it is peculiar and I figured it had some slightly hidden meaning. Really awesome problem, right up there with The Crack House IMO. Still can't believe the bouldering guide gives it three out of five stars, what blasphemy. |
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Jan 14, 2012
rating: 5.12 V5
| First 26 feet are cruiser. Last 4 are horrendously difficult. All 30 deserve every star they can get. |
By Michael Levato
Feb 13, 2012
rating: 5.11 V5+
| its not necessary to get inverted to top this one out |
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