Big Big Monkey Man  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  richard magill on Apr 28, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Protection 

Gear for about 30 feet, then 5 bolts to the anchors. Specific gear recommended: a couple of 1.5 Friends, a couple of small nuts, and maybe a large stopper.

Description 

Great pumpfest just left of Redneck Hero. It probably deserves a full three stars, but I gave it only two because the stone at the very top is a bit suspect - not as good as Redneck. However, as long as the holds stay put, it is a killer line.

To do this line, cross the creek on the upstream side of the cliff. Once you get to the wall, follow little ledges out as far right as you can go - this is the start of Pocket Hercules. Climb Pocket Hercules for 30 feet or so (requires gear) until you reach the first bolt.

The route then trends right up the overhanging wall, involving big reaches to mostly good holds.

Totally fun - a solid letter grade harder than Redneck, and every bit as cool.

The second bolt has a very rusty hanger on it - if anyone reading this does this line, take a new hanger with you and post an update here when it is replaced.