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Big Bend Butte is the mesa immediately left of Dolomite Spire and the Lighthouse Tower, when viewed from the road. There are quite a few routes on the formation, the best of which are the Jay Smith beauties Infrared (5.12-) and Clearlight (5.11+ R).
Park at the Buffalo Chip Boulder (a large boulder immediately across from the towers). Cross the street and find a cairned climbers' trail to the base of the Lighthouse Tower. Head along the base of Lighthouse and Dolomite to the Butte.
2 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Big Bend Butte
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Bend Butte:
Clearlight 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Infrared 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Big Bend Butte
Clearlight 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 UT : Moab Area : ... : Big Bend Butte
An unsung classic. Pitch 1- 5.10 climbing with a little bit of everything thrown in. Loose and silty in places but really engaging, worthy climbing that ends at Metolius rap hangers at a nice stance. (120 ft) Pitch 2- a wild traverse left(about 40 ft)from the belay past a couple of excellent bolts, with a few natural gear placements as well... when you reach the off-fingers crack(the route's crux), climb on up. This pitch also ends at some nice steel anchors- 5.11 PG-13(70-ish feet). Pitch 3- Th...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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