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Big Bend Butte

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Clearlight T 
Infrared T 

Big Bend Butte  


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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 19, 2003
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Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire from the wall ab...

Description 

Big Bend Butte is the mesa immediately left of Dolomite Spire and the Lighthouse Tower, when viewed from the road. There are quite a few routes on the formation, the best of which are the Jay Smith beauties Infrared (5.12-) and Clearlight (5.11+ R).

Getting There 

Park at the Buffalo Chip Boulder (a large boulder immediately across from the towers). Cross the street and find a cairned climbers' trail to the base of the Lighthouse Tower. Head along the base of Lighthouse and Dolomite to the Butte.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Bend Butte:
Clearlight   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Infrared   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in Big Bend Butte

Featured Route For Big Bend Butte
The Infrared buttress, Dolomite Spire, and Lighthouse Tower at the end of the day. <br /> <br />Infrared is the right-most of the three obvious lines on  the buttress.

Infrared 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  UT : Moab Area : ... : Big Bend Butte
An overlooked gem of a tower route! When looking up at the Butte from the road, three splitters are visible on the right side of the buttress. The thin, thin one on the left is Clearlight. The obvious one in the middle (a 6-8" horror) is Dolomite Wall, and the rightmost one is Infrared.P1: Begin in the first crack system left of the corner formed by Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire. It is a stemming slot up broken rock and roofs to a wide-hands crack. Belay at bolts. 5.10.P2: Two ways to ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Big Bend Butte Slideshow Add Photo
The route shown by the blue arrows might be a higher quality way to access pitch 4 and 5's stellar OW on 'Dolomite Wall'.
BETA PHOTO: The route shown by the blue arrows might be a high...
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Summit View

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