Big Bend Bouldering Area Rock Climbing
Kris on unknown problem, block box boulder???
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
When it comes to quality and quantity, in such a small area, it's hard to beat Big Bend. Add the convenience of beautiful riverside camping, zero approach and a dizzying array of other things to do (I hear there's crack climbing
), you'll be missing out if you skip over Moab on your next road trip. The best season is October through March but bouldering can be had year round. Be cautioned, however, summers in the desert can be as hot as sin and although winters are generally mild, you'll want to check the forecast as storms do roll through. If you find yourself freezing in Joe's Valley
odds are good it will be sunny with crisp temps at Big Bend.
The climbing is generally skin friendly, with great landings and with a few notable exceptions aren't toooo highball. You can certainly have a great time on your own with a single pad. With grades from V0 to V-hard there is truly something for everyone. With that, no Big Bend description is complete without mentioning the grades. Big Bend was established by legends such as John Sherman, Dan Osman and Tom Gilge with local hardmen Noah Bigwood and Eric Decaria putting up some of the hardest test pieces. Raised in a strict local ethic you won't be seeing many of these problems being downgraded, to say the least. This is best exemplified by Circus Trick
, probably the hardest V4 on the planet. I have seen many a hardmen and women reduced to tears (literally!) on this stout area test piece. Many of the area's V0's and V1's will feel hard for the grade.
The rock is Wingate Sandstone which can and will break. DO NOT CLIMB ON WET SANDSTONE! Sandstone is very porous and will break much easier when wet. Please allow at least 24 hours to dry and the general rule of thumb is if the ground is wet, the rock is wet. Also, if exploring for new boulders please be careful not to step on Cryptobiotic Soil; don't bust the crust yo!
Please be respectful of the desert, if you have any questions the people at Pagan Mountaineering in Moab usually will have an answer for you.
Heading North out of Moab take Hwy 128 just before you hit the Colorado River. Follow 'River Road' 8.1 miles to a pull off on the right after the Big Bend Campground. It's hard to miss these boulders as they are about 20 feet from the road and an abundance of chalk can easily be seen as you drive past.
Weather station 4.4 miles from here
73 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Big Bend Bouldering Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Big Bend Bouldering Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Big Bend Bouldering Area:
Featured Route For Big Bend Bouldering Area
Chaos V8 7B UT
: Moab Area
: ... : Chaos Boulder
Chaos starts standing with both hands on a badly sloping shelf. Alternatively, one can start even lower, again with hands on slopers, to add a move or two. From the shelf, move a bit to the left, using crimps to move upwards. The crux move comes when you get a small gaston and pull left to the lip of the scoop. It's a long move, and footholds are very small. Some guidebook photos can provide beta on this move. Once the lip is attained, mantle up and get over your feet. You're not done. I...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Jason on Rampage, spot by Unger and K2.
Guy climbing Split Decision in the Big Bend Area.
BETA PHOTO: bouldering...
Cold day at Big Bend Photo by: Tyler Youngwerth
Dakota working on something hard at Big Bend.
BETA PHOTO: Block Top Boulder V5 Crimpalicous Me working on it
These huecos are perfectly suited for a death grip...
Charles Vernon pullin' down.
More shots from big bend.
Does anyone know the name of this rock and the cli...
my buddy bouldering at flat top
photo by: Tyler Youngwerth
Camping at Big Bend. Photo by Jason Urasky
Starting under the roof on Block Top Boulder...
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