Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Big Bend Bouldering Area
Evolv Pontas II Climbing Shoe

$124.95 20% off

$99.96

at Backcountry

1    more...
Outdoor Research Verglas Gaiter - Women's

$53.95 34% off

$35.07

at DeptOfGoods

23    more...
Petzl Ergo Ice Tool

$340.00 25% off

$255.00

at Backcountry

4    more...
DMM Dragon Cams

$79.95 21% off

$62.95

at USOutdoorStr

1634    more...
Edelweiss Curve ARC Rope 9.8mm x 70m

$199.99 30% off

$139.99

at AlsSports

9    more...
Evolv - Demorto Climbing Shoes

$120.00 33% off

$79.97

at GearX

9    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Select Area...
Army of Darkness Boulder 
Black Box, The 
Black Top Boulder 
Chaos Boulder 
Flat Top Boulder 
Hidden Crack Boulder, The 
Hueco Traverse Boulder, The 
Orange Peel Boulder 
Punisher Boulder, The 
Sand Traverse Boulder (AKA The Mushroom Boulder), The 
Scoopula Boulder, The 
Split Decision 
Trail Boulder 
Various Areas 
Wash Boulder, The 

Big Bend Bouldering Area 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 100,999. Good page? (2 likes)   
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: MIYG on May 12, 2002

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
 Printer View

Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Clear
90° | 54°
Clear
91° | 54°
Clear
88° | 52°
Partly Cloudy
86° | 55°
Mostly Cloudy
88° | 52°

BETA PHOTO: Big Bend Boulders.

The Word 

When it comes to quality and quantity, in such a small area, it's hard to beat Big Bend. Add the convenience of beautiful riverside camping, zero approach and a dizzying array of other things to do (I hear there's crack climbing), you'll be missing out if you skip over Moab on your next road trip. The best season is October through March but bouldering can be had year round. Be cautioned, however, summers in the desert can be as hot as sin and although winters are generally mild, you'll want to check the forecast as storms do roll through. If you find yourself freezing in Joe's Valley odds are good it will be sunny with crisp temps at Big Bend.

The climbing is generally skin friendly, with great landings and with a few notable exceptions aren't toooo highball. You can certainly have a great time on your own with a single pad. With grades from V0 to V-hard there is truly something for everyone. With that, no Big Bend description is complete without mentioning the grades. Big Bend was established by legends such as John Sherman, Dan Osman and Tom Gilge with local hardmen Noah Bigwood and Eric Decaria putting up some of the hardest test pieces. Raised in a strict local ethic you won't be seeing many of these problems being downgraded, to say the least. This is best exemplified by Circus Trick, probably the hardest V4 on the planet. I have seen many a hardmen and women reduced to tears (literally!) on this stout area test piece. Many of the area's V0's and V1's will feel hard for the grade.

The rock is Wingate Sandstone which can and will break. DO NOT CLIMB ON WET SANDSTONE! Sandstone is very porous and will break much easier when wet. Please allow at least 24 hours to dry and the general rule of thumb is if the ground is wet, the rock is wet. Also, if exploring for new boulders please be careful not to step on Cryptobiotic Soil; don't bust the crust yo!

Please be respectful of the desert, if you have any questions the people at Pagan Mountaineering in Moab usually will have an answer for you.


Getting There 

Heading North out of Moab take Hwy 128 just before you hit the Colorado River. Follow 'River Road' 8.1 miles to a pull off on the right after the Big Bend Campground. It's hard to miss these boulders as they are about 20 feet from the road and an abundance of chalk can easily be seen as you drive past.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Bend Bouldering Area:
Leftover Lover   V0     Boulder   Flat Top Boulder
Center Start   V1     Boulder   The Black Box
Mr. Trujillo's Big Day   V2-     Boulder, 12 feet   Flat Top Boulder
Slots of Fun   V2     Boulder   The Black Box
Rampage   V3     Boulder, 18 feet   Chaos Boulder
Arete Right Side   V3     Boulder   The Black Box
Arete Left Side   V3     Boulder   The Black Box
Washed Up   V4     Boulder   The Wash Boulder
Circus Trick   V4     Boulder   Chaos Boulder
Brown Power   V4     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10 feet   Black Top Boulder
Circus Trick Right   V5     Boulder, 15 feet   Chaos Boulder
Basketball Diaries   V5     Boulder, 20 feet   Army of Darkness Boulder
Block Party   V5     Boulder, 12 feet   Black Top Boulder
The Grim Reacher   V5     Boulder, 25 feet   Chaos Boulder
Army of Darkness    V5     Boulder, 15 feet   Army of Darkness Boulder
Blankety Blank   V6-7     Boulder, 10 feet   The Punisher Boulder
Sloper City   V8     Boulder, 15 feet   Various Areas
Chaos   V8     Boulder, 25 feet   Chaos Boulder
Hell Belly   V10-11     Boulder   Chaos Boulder
Phantom Fighter   V11     Boulder   Chaos Boulder
Browse More Classics in Big Bend Bouldering Area

Featured Route For Big Bend Bouldering Area
Basketball Diaries start left

Basketball Diaries V5  UT : Moab Area : ... : Army of Darkness Boulder
Sit start on a crimp or sidepull with your left hand and the obvious low hold with your right and traverse right and go up the slightly incut rails. pretty tricky start but i have never seen anyone do it....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Big Bend Bouldering Area Slideshow Add Photo
Big Bend My Friend

Big Bend My Friend

Kris on unknown problem, block box boulder???

Kris on unknown problem, block box boulder???

Guy climbing Split Decision in the Big Bend Area.

Guy climbing Split Decision in the Big Bend Area.

bouldering...

BETA PHOTO: bouldering...


BETA PHOTO
Big Bend, Moab

Big Bend, Moab

Dakota working on something hard at Big Bend.

Dakota working on something hard at Big Bend.

my buddy bouldering at flat top <br />

my buddy bouldering at flat top


Does anyone know the name of this rock and the climb on the right?

Does anyone know the name of this rock and the cli...

More shots from big bend.

More shots from big bend.

Charles Vernon pullin' down.

Charles Vernon pullin' down.

Geoff on Rampage

Geoff on Rampage

Jason on Rampage, spot by Unger and K2.

Jason on Rampage, spot by Unger and K2.

Starting under the roof on Block Top Boulder...

Starting under the roof on Block Top Boulder...

Unknown arete problem in Big Bend.

Unknown arete problem in Big Bend.

Big Bend.

Big Bend.

Holly Huecos Batman!

Holly Huecos Batman!

Bouldering at Big Bend

Bouldering at Big Bend

Cold day at Big Bend <br />Photo by: Tyler Youngwerth

Cold day at Big Bend
Photo by: Tyler Youngwerth


flat top

flat top

These huecos are perfectly suited for a death grip!

These huecos are perfectly suited for a death grip...

photo by: Tyler Youngwerth

photo by: Tyler Youngwerth

Block Top Boulder V5 Crimpalicous Me working on it

BETA PHOTO: Block Top Boulder V5 Crimpalicous Me working on it

Camping at Big Bend.  Photo by Jason Urasky

Camping at Big Bend. Photo by Jason Urasky

My pregnant "bun head".

My pregnant "bun head".


Comments on Big Bend Bouldering Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steven Senger
Jun 7, 2002

This area is fun. One time I came to Moab and spent an entire week in this area alone. There's a silly chimney traverse thing, a couple of crack deals, and a bunch of huecos! I still can't stick that last dyno on Circus Trick... The lonely boulder (a quarter mile down the road towards Moab and back down a short truck trail) has some super-sweet problems on it.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 9, 2002

Anybody know about the hard problems at Big Bend? I think Phantom Fighter-sit is the Klem problem just to the right of circus trick. But where is Hell Belly? Any other hard problems? Moab has a ton of undeveloped hard problems-anyone have recomendations for stuff off the beaten path?

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 18, 2003

Just to the left of Chaos(V8), is a steep pinch problem with terrible heel scums(V11).

By Dave Jackson
Mar 11, 2006

This is the best place to boulder in the world! What an idillic setting, and the quantity of problems is remarkable! Even the sandstone is solid!! I spent an entire afternoon here and that wasn't even enough time to scratch the surface.

By EricW
From: Sandy, Ut
Feb 27, 2008

This place is great for a few days. Tent camping is a across the street. Lots of parking here as well. I think the problems are hard for the grade.Zero approach! Gets sun all day.

By Christian Prellwitz
Dec 14, 2012

Big thanks to all the people that have been stepping up lately, and adding lots more problems to the database. I've been trying to do my part as well. This place deserves some love!