|Big Bend Bouldering Area
When it comes to quality and quantity, in such a small area, it's hard to beat Big Bend. Add the convenience of beautiful riverside camping, zero approach and a dizzying array of other things to do (I hear there's crack climbing), you'll be missing out if you skip over Moab on your next road trip. The best season is October through March but bouldering can be had year round. Be cautioned, however, summers in the desert can be as hot as sin and although winters are generally mild, you'll want to check the forecast as storms do roll through. If you find yourself freezing in Joe's Valley odds are good it will be sunny with crisp temps at Big Bend.
The climbing is generally skin friendly, with great landings and with a few notable exceptions aren't toooo highball. You can certainly have a great time on your own with a single pad. With grades from V0 to V-hard there is truly something for everyone. With that, no Big Bend description is complete without mentioning the grades. Big Bend was established by legends such as John Sherman, Dan Osman and Tom Gilge with local hardmen Noah Bigwood and Eric Decaria putting up some of the hardest test pieces. Raised in a strict local ethic you won't be seeing many of these problems being downgraded, to say the least. This is best exemplified by Circus Trick, probably the hardest V4 on the planet. I have seen many a hardmen and women reduced to tears (literally!) on this stout area test piece. Many of the area's V0's and V1's will feel hard for the grade.
The rock is Wingate Sandstone which can and will break. DO NOT CLIMB ON WET SANDSTONE! Sandstone is very porous and will break much easier when wet. Please allow at least 24 hours to dry and the general rule of thumb is if the ground is wet, the rock is wet. Also, if exploring for new boulders please be careful not to step on Cryptobiotic Soil; don't bust the crust yo!
Please be respectful of the desert, if you have any questions the people at Pagan Mountaineering in Moab usually will have an answer for you.
Heading North out of Moab take Hwy 128 just before you hit the Colorado River. Follow 'River Road' 8.1 miles to a pull off on the right after the Big Bend Campground. It's hard to miss these boulders as they are about 20 feet from the road and an abundance of chalk can easily be seen as you drive past.
71 Total Routes
['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',28],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Big Bend Bouldering Area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Bend Bouldering Area:
Featured Route For Big Bend Bouldering Area
Phantom Fighter V11 8A UT
: Moab Area
: ... : Chaos Boulder
This route is to the right of Circus Trick and goes up obvious sloping edges on the overhanging black streak. Sit start with a left hand crimp and a right hand on a sharp, tiny pocket/edge. Follow the obvious edges up and either go into the finger lock or make a huge huck for the top. It's V8 if you start standing up....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Local Information for Big Bend Bouldering Area
Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By Steven Senger|
Jun 7, 2002
This area is fun. One time I came to Moab and spent an entire week in this area alone. There's a silly chimney traverse thing, a couple of crack deals, and a bunch of huecos! I still can't stick that last dyno on Circus Trick... The lonely boulder (a quarter mile down the road towards Moab and back down a short truck trail) has some super-sweet problems on it.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 9, 2002
Anybody know about the hard problems at Big Bend? I think Phantom Fighter-sit is the Klem problem just to the right of circus trick. But where is Hell Belly? Any other hard problems? Moab has a ton of undeveloped hard problems-anyone have recomendations for stuff off the beaten path?
|By Anonymous Coward|
Mar 18, 2003
Just to the left of Chaos(V8), is a steep pinch problem with terrible heel scums(V11).
|By Dave Jackson|
Mar 11, 2006
This is the best place to boulder in the world! What an idillic setting, and the quantity of problems is remarkable! Even the sandstone is solid!! I spent an entire afternoon here and that wasn't even enough time to scratch the surface.
From: Sandy, Ut
Feb 27, 2008
This place is great for a few days. Tent camping is a across the street. Lots of parking here as well. I think the problems are hard for the grade.Zero approach! Gets sun all day.
|By Christian Prellwitz|
From: Telluride, CO
Dec 14, 2012
Big thanks to all the people that have been stepping up lately, and adding lots more problems to the database. I've been trying to do my part as well. This place deserves some love!