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Big Bend Bouldering Area

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Army of Darkness Boulder 
Black Box, The 
Black Top Boulder 
Chaos Boulder 
Corbin Boulder 
Flat Top Boulder 
Hidden Crack Boulder, The 
Hueco Traverse Boulder, The 
Orange Peel Boulder 
Punisher Boulder, The 
Sand Traverse Boulder (AKA The Mushroom Boulder), The 
Scoopula Boulder, The 
Split Decision 
Trail Boulder 
Various Areas 
Wash Boulder, The 

Big Bend Bouldering Area Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.65078, -109.48395 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: ben jammin on May 12, 2002
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Kris on unknown problem, block box boulder???

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

The Word 

When it comes to quality and quantity, in such a small area, it's hard to beat Big Bend. Add the convenience of beautiful riverside camping, zero approach and a dizzying array of other things to do (I hear there's crack climbing), you'll be missing out if you skip over Moab on your next road trip. The best season is October through March but bouldering can be had year round. Be cautioned, however, summers in the desert can be as hot as sin and although winters are generally mild, you'll want to check the forecast as storms do roll through. If you find yourself freezing in Joe's Valley odds are good it will be sunny with crisp temps at Big Bend.

The climbing is generally skin friendly, with great landings and with a few notable exceptions aren't toooo highball. You can certainly have a great time on your own with a single pad. With grades from V0 to V-hard there is truly something for everyone. With that, no Big Bend description is complete without mentioning the grades. Big Bend was established by legends such as John Sherman, Dan Osman and Tom Gilge with local hardmen Noah Bigwood and Eric Decaria putting up some of the hardest test pieces. Raised in a strict local ethic you won't be seeing many of these problems being downgraded, to say the least. This is best exemplified by Circus Trick, probably the hardest V4 on the planet. I have seen many a hardmen and women reduced to tears (literally!) on this stout area test piece. Many of the area's V0's and V1's will feel hard for the grade.

The rock is Wingate Sandstone which can and will break. DO NOT CLIMB ON WET SANDSTONE! Sandstone is very porous and will break much easier when wet. Please allow at least 24 hours to dry and the general rule of thumb is if the ground is wet, the rock is wet. Also, if exploring for new boulders please be careful not to step on Cryptobiotic Soil; don't bust the crust yo!

Please be respectful of the desert, if you have any questions the people at Pagan Mountaineering in Moab usually will have an answer for you.

Getting There 

Heading North out of Moab take Hwy 128 just before you hit the Colorado River. Follow 'River Road' 8.1 miles to a pull off on the right after the Big Bend Campground. It's hard to miss these boulders as they are about 20 feet from the road and an abundance of chalk can easily be seen as you drive past.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.4 miles from here

73 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Big Bend Bouldering Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Big Bend Bouldering Area:
Leftover Lover   V0 4     Boulder   Flat Top Boulder
Center Start   V1 5     Boulder   The Black Box
Slots of Fun   V2 5+     Boulder   The Black Box
The Pregnancy Arete   V2+ 5+     Boulder   Flat Top Boulder
Mr. Trujillo's Big Day   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 12'   Flat Top Boulder
Arete Left Side   V3 6A     Boulder   The Black Box
Arete Right Side   V3 6A     Boulder   The Black Box
Silly Wabbit   V3+ 6A+     Boulder   Flat Top Boulder
Brown Power   V4 6B     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   Black Top Boulder
Washed Up   V4 6B     Boulder   The Wash Boulder
Basketball Diaries   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Army of Darkness Boulder
Army of Darkness    V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Army of Darkness Boulder
Block Party   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   Black Top Boulder
Circus Trick Right   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Chaos Boulder
The Grim Reacher   V5 6C     Boulder, 25'   Chaos Boulder
Circus Trick   V5 6C     Boulder   Chaos Boulder
Blankety Blank   V6-7 7A+     Boulder, 10'   The Punisher Boulder
Chaos   V8 7B     Boulder, 25'   Chaos Boulder
Arete Left Side Sit Start   V9 7C     Boulder   The Black Box
Hell Belly   V10-11 8A     Boulder   Chaos Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Big Bend Bouldering Area

Featured Route For Big Bend Bouldering Area
Rock Climbing Photo: the crux

Sloper City V8 7B  UT : Moab Area : ... : Various Areas
This boulder is sick and a complete power and core problem with techy balance and finesse, there are three crux's, first you go all the way back in the cave and sit on a obvious sit start rock with jugs in your face pull a couple fun moves to a big jug sloper and do a three foot drop down to another sloper (first crux) at that point you should be horizontal and both hands on lower sloper rail then the fun begins do some super core moves to the middle of the rail and be delicate here this is the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Big Bend Bouldering Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason on Rampage, spot by Unger and K2.
Jason on Rampage, spot by Unger and K2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Guy climbing Split Decision in the Big Bend Area.
Guy climbing Split Decision in the Big Bend Area.
Rock Climbing Photo: flat top
flat top
Rock Climbing Photo: trying out death flakes
trying out death flakes
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: bouldering...
BETA PHOTO: bouldering...
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bend, Moab
Big Bend, Moab
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bend.
Big Bend.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at Big Bend
Bouldering at Big Bend
Rock Climbing Photo: photo by: Tyler Youngwerth
photo by: Tyler Youngwerth
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bend My Friend
Big Bend My Friend
Rock Climbing Photo: Camping at Big Bend.  Photo by Jason Urasky
Camping at Big Bend. Photo by Jason Urasky
Rock Climbing Photo: Dakota working on something hard at Big Bend.
Dakota working on something hard at Big Bend.
Rock Climbing Photo: my buddy bouldering at flat top
my buddy bouldering at flat top
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown arete problem in Big Bend.
Unknown arete problem in Big Bend.
Rock Climbing Photo: Does anyone know the name of this rock and the cli...
Does anyone know the name of this rock and the cli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Holly Huecos Batman!
Holly Huecos Batman!
Rock Climbing Photo: More shots from big bend.
More shots from big bend.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cold day at Big Bend Photo by: Tyler Youngwerth
Cold day at Big Bend Photo by: Tyler Youngwerth
Rock Climbing Photo: Charles Vernon pullin' down.
Charles Vernon pullin' down.
Rock Climbing Photo: These huecos are perfectly suited for a death grip...
These huecos are perfectly suited for a death grip...
Rock Climbing Photo: Geoff on Rampage
Geoff on Rampage
Rock Climbing Photo: Block Top Boulder V5 Crimpalicous Me working on it
BETA PHOTO: Block Top Boulder V5 Crimpalicous Me working on it
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bend Boulders.
BETA PHOTO: Big Bend Boulders.

Show All 26 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Big Bend Bouldering Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steven Senger
Jun 7, 2002
This area is fun. One time I came to Moab and spent an entire week in this area alone. There's a silly chimney traverse thing, a couple of crack deals, and a bunch of huecos! I still can't stick that last dyno on Circus Trick... The lonely boulder (a quarter mile down the road towards Moab and back down a short truck trail) has some super-sweet problems on it.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 9, 2002
Anybody know about the hard problems at Big Bend? I think Phantom Fighter-sit is the Klem problem just to the right of circus trick. But where is Hell Belly? Any other hard problems? Moab has a ton of undeveloped hard problems-anyone have recomendations for stuff off the beaten path?
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 18, 2003
Just to the left of Chaos(V8), is a steep pinch problem with terrible heel scums(V11).
By Dave Jackson
Mar 11, 2006
This is the best place to boulder in the world! What an idillic setting, and the quantity of problems is remarkable! Even the sandstone is solid!! I spent an entire afternoon here and that wasn't even enough time to scratch the surface.
By EricW
From: Sandy, Ut
Feb 27, 2008
This place is great for a few days. Tent camping is a across the street. Lots of parking here as well. I think the problems are hard for the grade.Zero approach! Gets sun all day.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Dec 14, 2012
Big thanks to all the people that have been stepping up lately, and adding lots more problems to the database. I've been trying to do my part as well. This place deserves some love!
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Apr 7, 2015
I was here April 3rd and found route names and faux petroglyphs written in chalk all over The Punisher Boulder. Cleaned it up best I could with water. Please respect the rock.
By Alex Beshay
Jun 10, 2015
Where can I find a guidebook for this area?

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