All Locations > Colorado > Ft Collins > Poudre Canyon > Palace

Big Beaver Tail Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in Big Beaver Tail

L › R R › L A › Z

	Breaking Trail S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Choss Mojination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Forest Fire S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Gansta Man In A Cadillac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lichen It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Steep and Cheap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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GPS:	40.6923, -105.379 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,673 total · 33/month
Shared By:	beavs on Dec 18, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:

Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.

The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.

Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.

A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….

Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….

Description

This little wall faces mostly west and has a few decent short routes. Not a crag to rave about but you will most likely have the place to yourself even on a crowded day at The Palace. The quality of the rock varies with the harder routes on the left side being the best. The worst of the choss is encountered down low on the wall. The base of the wall is steep, loose, and right above The Chamber, so be careful not to send rocks down towards other climbers. For this reason, it's not a great spot to bring the dogs or clumsy people.

Getting There

Kind of tricky. The best way is to start at The Poudre Face - from there continue up the trail heading north until the steepness eases and you pass a lone pine tree. Hike about another 30 yards further and look for a very faint trail marked with cairns that wanders up through some smaller broken cliffs to the west. The trail soon forks left (rather than right to the Lions Den) and reaches the top of the cliff band before heading back down to the south and into a gulley above The Chamber. Takes about 15 minutes or so. The crag sits right above The Chamber and can be approached from the base of The Red Wall, but it is not recommended as it requires scrambling up some looseness that could rumble all the way through The Chamber. If you go this way, be very careful.

L->R:

A. Lichen It, 12, 1p, 30', bolts.
B. Steep and Cheap, 11+, 1p, 30', bolts.
C. Gansta Man In A Cadillac, 11, 1p, 30', bolts.
D. Breaking Trail, 10, 1p, 30', bolts.
E. Forest Fire, 11-, 1p, 30', bolts.
F. Choss Mojination, 11, 1p, 30', bolts.