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Face climb a few moves off the ground to a left-leaning thin hands crack. At the top of this crack, clip a bolt, pull the crux bulge, clip the 2nd bolt. Follow a water groove (5.7R), and don't pass up placing pro in 2 diagonal cracks that cross this groove on your way to the 2-bolt anchor. There are really cool fins and big holds in this upper section, but the runout is 25' so you've still got to keep your focus.
Note that all climbing harder than 5.8 is well protected on this climb, but runout on 5.7. Welcome to TP 5.10s.
Watch out for people who might be about to use the anchors to rappel.
Toward the right end of Mosaic Rock, at the South/SE corner, behind a pine tree: you can see the left leaning hand crack that begins about 8' up. Soon after this route, the cliff faces more south east than south. It's the next climb left of the Baby Cakes flake.
Rap the route with a 60m rope from the 2-bolt anchor with chains. You could walk off if you wanted to, or if you had a shorter rope.
Standard TP rack: 1 set cams to 2", 1 set nuts. 2 bolts protect the crux 5.10 moves. Ends at a 2-bolt anchor.
|By tim naylor|
Jan 9, 2012
can go right of bolt over bulge on crimps @ .11b but less awkward?