Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio
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This is one of THE routes to do while in Cochamo, long, sustained, solid and mostly clean rock, and just plain fun climbing. It's possible to rap off the first 14 pitches, and most of the anchors above that have a least one bolt or fixed gear. The first few pitches and the last few pitches can be a little confusing to find, so it wouldn't be a bad idea getting a little beta from the refugio before doing the climb. A topo of the route can found at Cochamo.com along with another route description (in spanish). Also, when we climbed this route we got lost towards the top (forgot to bring the topo up with us!) and ended up doing a different variation to the last few pitches. I went ahead and listed both where the route actually goes (the A option for P16-20) what we ended up doing (B). Take the last few pitches that I listed under A with a grain of salt, its all secondhand information.
P1: The start is a little hard to pick out, most likely the best way to find it is, when scrambling up the slabs, stay right next to the wall and you'll come to a point where if you stay right next to the wall you'll have to climb up a crack or continue on easier ground to the left. At this point set a belay for the left option. The pitch continues going up steeper terrain and moving up right slightly leading to a large bush with slings for an anchor. 5.6 55m
P2: Make your way up to the obvious dihedral looming above you. Easy climbing leads to a choice of going up a squeeze or taking a crack out to the left. We opted for the squeeze (didn't see the crack to the left), it was a grunt, but easy and secure. Either way leads to a bolted anchor. 5.7 55m
P3: Move into the dihedral by climbing what looks like rotten rock, followed by polished granite. 3 bolts 5.9 50m
P4: This next pitch is where the business starts. Sustained climbing up the dihedral passing a few pitons along the way. Take everything for gear you brought up for this one, it takes it all. 5.11 60m
P5: Quick rest pitch, traverse left via the upper of two ramps passing one bolt. The anchor is one bolt which can be backed up with a nut. 5.7 20m
P6: Continue up the flaring crack using bolts and a mixed range of cams. Eventually make slab/face moves out right following bolts to the anchor. It is easy to climb past the moves out right, so be on the lookout. 5.10d 50m
P7: Another easy pitch, go up the ramp. The pitch ends at the bolt left of the crack, this can be backed up for the anchor. 5.7 45m
P8: The slab traverse pitch. Move directly right, first using a crack, then bolts directly across the slab. The opening and finishing moves on this I felt were desperate, everything in-between not so hard. This pitch is mostly bolts, for gear you only need to bring what you want for the first 10 ft, and a .5 camalot (if my memory is correct) to protect the second at the very end. 5.11a 35 m
P9: This pitch is entirely on bolts, past face/slab climbing. After the last bolt its pretty runout to the anchors. It might be possible to move right at the last bolt and reaching easier ground sooner rather than later. 5.10c 20m
P10: This was one of better pitches of the route. Fun crack climbing leads up the dihedral. At roughly 80ft an anchor is passed, move right at this point into another crack system, eventually you'll have to lie back up and right to the hidden anchor above. 5.10b 60m
P11: Right of the ground this pitch wouldn't be too bad, but if you're like me, you'll be getting tired and the lay backing on this pitch will feel pretty hard. Take all the bigger cams you brought for this pitch. Also, after the difficulties there is an old anchor, you can stop here, or continue up another 50 ft. I stopped at the lower anchor in fear of rope drag and it was possible to do the full next pitch without any problems. 5.10c 40m
P12: Follow the ramp/dihedral. The climbing is relatively easy, but its run out and slick, keeping it exciting. 5.7 30m
P13: For this pitch its better to just unrope and walk across the ledge for about 50m, then do a few 5.6 moves up to a bolted anchor. We didn't do this and wasted time because its impossible to communicate or see each other. 5.6 60m
P14-15: Start up a left facing dihedral that leads to a short OW. You can either stop at the top of this, or continue going up combining 14 and 15. The route continues up some really fun thin crack the leans to the left slightly. If combining the last 6 ft or so will have to be simul-climbed. 5.9 65m or 25m and 40m
P16: Continue out to the right into a dihedral. Continue up and either A: climb up to a roof and traverse left and set an anchor at the end of the roof. B: ~20ft below the roof there is a fixed nut, set an anchor here. 5.7 50m
P17: A: Continue up the dihedral via OW. 5.10a 60m B: Move right until going up looks really easy. Continue going up until a bolt with a fixed nut is encountered. 5.6 60m
P18: A: Exit the dihedral and then move to the right and going up another left facing dihedral. Once you arrive at a large slanting shelf, don't go up the dihedral, instead go down to the right looking for the start of a finger crack. Here you should find a bolt and a spot to put the # 3 camalot. 5.8 50m B: From the anchor move directly left to a short dihedral, then move out into a dirty finger crack, making moves further left into a wide horizontal crack (#4 camalot). Continue traversing left to a ledge and at a base of an OW. 5.9 35m
P19: A: Go up the finger crack, starting with tips, then eventually widening to fingers. Its supposed to be good 5.10b 60m B: Go up the unprotected dihedral to the OW/chimney. At about 80ft, a crack brakes out left, take this. Initially some dirty, unprotected climbing leads to a real nice and clean wide hands crack. Climb to a small pod and set gear for an anchor. 5.10a 50m
P20: A: Climb a hand crack that leads into a prominent dihedral , continue up past this to the top. 5.9 60m B: Continue up the nice crack using nice pockets in the face on the side. towards the top of the pitch things ease off considerably. 5.9 60m Another short pitch of 5.5 15m needs to be done to reach the top for B.
The summit is a short hike from the top-out. Enjoy!
The descent will make you realize how much you just climbed, its long and a pain. From the summit walk to the northeast looking for cairns. The cairns lead to a short rappel off some webbing. Then moving left towards the big gully leads to another rappel of 55m. From here, head down with tons of loose rocks and drop offs to wind around. Once the gully meets the trees, keep your eyes to the left for a trail that leads directly back to the base of Trinidad
The trail to Trinidad leads more or less right underneath Bienvenidos, but the climbing doesn't start till about a 150 m scramble up broken slabs. The starting point is a little difficult to find, it would be best to scout it out the night before the climb as its a little confusing where to begin.
2 sets of cams from the smallest to #3 camalot size along with one (or two for extra weight and security) #4. Set of nuts and two 60 m ropes.
|Photos of Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: Daniel's topo for Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio, circa...
|Comments on Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio
|By Kevin DB|
Feb 11, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
It's cool, but you better plan on going fast, those are 20 long pitches. A lot of the route is simulable.