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 ADVANCED
(4) Gold Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afternoon Delight T 
Beyond the Glory S 
Bitterroot T 
Chaos T,S 
Dirty Jugs S 
Ganesh  T 
Kung Fu S 
Masterpiece Theatre S 
Screaming for Change T,S 
Siddhartha T 
Sweeping Beauty T,S 
Whine and Cheese S 

Beyond the Glory 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 852
Submitted By: Eric Schnepel on Sep 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Ethan Vella about halfway through the cruxy sectio...

Description 

Good climb with a mix of power and balance. Cruxes around the 4th bolt. Eases considerably after a no-hands-rest ledge around the 6th bolt.

Location 

Starts on some funny looking rock a few feet to the right of Masterpiece Theater.

Protection 

Sport. 12 draws


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By Matt Pennock
From: Portland, OR
Apr 24, 2011

Really fun, unique climb. Might be a 5.12a if it weren't for the no-hands rest.
Anchors seem a little off to the right, since they share with another route.
By Adam Therneau
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I'm not sure if this one fit me better than Masterpiece Theater, but this feels a couple letter grades easier. Whatever it is, the climbing is fantastic. Never pulled a combo mantle/kneebar move before this one!
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Oct 1, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A fun and powerful route. I didn't feel any one move felt any harder then 5.11b, but the sustained crux section definitely bumped the grade to a solid 5.11c. Make sure to tape up for two finger stack pocket at the start of the crux. Its sharp! I typically skip the crux bolt, and the bolt at the start of the overhang, as they really aren't needed IMO. Bolted really close together during that section.
By Brunt Tornton
From: NH
Jun 11, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

what is the established finish for this route? seems like one can either go to the Screaming for Change anchors, or the masterpiece ones. I went to the Screaming ones and it made sense for cleaning the route.
By another Chad
Jun 12, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Brunt, either way works. It seems that most people stop at the Screaming For Change anchor.

Chad
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