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Elephant Rock - North
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Beware of Nesting Egos T 
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Beware of Nesting Egos 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stan Caldwell, Dan Sperlock, 1984
Page Views: 5,155
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Jun 23, 2006

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The final crux moves to a jug...

Description 

This is an incredible mixed route to the right of The Pygmees got stoned. It has three widely spaced bolts but you will also need a good assortment of gear. It is sustained with three pretty difficult sections with the most difficult of the three being at the end. Great movement and beautiful features the whole way. I think this route is a classic and one of the best I've done at the city.

Location 

Starts right of the pygmees got stoned. There is an obvious flake about 15 feet up that you undercling and jam around the left side of to get onto the face. There are three bolts connecting smaller finger cracks on the upper wall.

Protection 

3 bolts. A #2 and #3 Camalot for the beginning crack. A full set of stoppers and smaller cams up to a 0.5 Camalot for the upper sections between the bolts. Fixed anchor at top which is set back over a lip making a top rope run a little rough, best to sling it out for the TR then rap when done.


Photos of Beware of Nesting Egos Slideshow Add Photo
The gear before the first bolt on the face is of p...
The gear before the first bolt on the face is of p...
The interesting finger crack feature in the middle...
The interesting finger crack feature in the middle...
Starting up Beware of Nesting Egos.
Starting up Beware of Nesting Egos.
Climber on Beware of Nesting Egos.
Climber on Beware of Nesting Egos.
Near the top of Beware of Nesting Egos.
Near the top of Beware of Nesting Egos.

Comments on Beware of Nesting Egos Add Comment
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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 20, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

This may be the best mixed route at the City. This route has a little bit of everything from roof moves, scary traverses, runout face climbing, a fun finger crack, and a pumpy finish.

There are some large runouts (~15ft) above good gear. Bring gear up to a .75 camalot for the upper section, while a #2,3, and 3.5 will protect the roof section.

By Ben Folsom
Aug 21, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is a fantastic route! Good gear, a little bit hard to read, and super fun! I did this for the first time last weekend and it will for sure be one I go back to from time to time.
By CalmAdrenaline
From: SL,UT
Sep 6, 2011

"This thing is not like oh fuck, but definitely oh shit" - Advice I got from another climber while passing the first bolt. I'd say it was pretty spot on.. steller route.
By Deniz
From: Boise
Feb 19, 2012

This route is just frigging superb. It doesnt look that varied from the ground, but the flake start, finger crack, hard traverses with super sporty moves... It is just awesome.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 13, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

It is possible to climb right at the last bolt to make this an excellent 5.11a. The left variation is still a full value 5.11b.
By kevinhansen
From: Albion Idaho
Jan 19, 2013

The last ten feet I have to dyno for the big hold just down and right of the chains. Then again I'm short. This route has it all! Everything from thin fingers, big slab friction, full horizontal fisting in a roof/crack (Start), and a crazy layback at the top. I LOVE THIS ROUTE!
By Rob T
Apr 2, 2013

Unfortunately(imho), the anchor was moved down a few feet. not a huge difference, but i always felt a little on edge mantling the final jugs to get to the chains. they're now located just below so you can clip while hanging from the jugs. mainly noted b/c it makes Guy's comments above as well as comments on slings in initial description somewhat irrelevant.
By Max Bechdel
From: Bozeman, MT
May 5, 2014

Chains aren't over the lip, they're fine for TRing now.

I heard different opinions on gear, here's what I used in order (BD cams): #3 (24" runner), #2 (24" runner), red C3, bolt, yellow C3, .4, bolt, bolt, .3, chains.

Quality route!
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Jul 21, 2014

Great climb! One of my favorite City routes to date. I felt like the gear was pretty sketch after the flake, but before the first bolt, but the climbing is not too hard there. Fun, Memorable movement, really varied. Highly recommended.