|The Cookie Cliff
This pitch provides a moderate approach pitch to the classic routes, Butterfingers, Butterballs, and Wheat Thin. Fun pitch that has some good stemming through a dihedral and reasonable protection. Continue above to bolts on ledge that serves as the start for the upper routes.
Locate Meatgrider(large crack in dihedral)and Cookie Monster( 5.13a bolted route up overhanging arete) after making the approach. From here walk around to the right of the cliff traversing along a small sloping path to gain the start of this one. You will be above a 30 foot section of cliff band at this point.
Standard Rack. Small Cams useful at the start, up to hand size for the top.
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 10, 2007
May not be a good line to push your limit on. Tricky, thin (and bomber once you get it right) gear from awkward stances on the bottom third. There was a fatal fall from this section a while back.
|By Colin Simon|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
I've heard that the fatal fall on this route was from a leader who didn't have any pro yet, and the belayer didn't make an anchor on the belay ledge, so they both took a 30 foot plunge onto jagged boulders.
So -- set up an anchor on the ledge! It takes a couple minutes, but it's worth it.
From: San Francisco
Mar 11, 2010
pretty solid .10a and in your face right off the deck lead to a good rest then some fun stems and a cool roof with several options to the top.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2011
I thought this pitch was really good! And a great warmup for the wall. The gear is also not bad at all. Sure you have to climb above it a little but with a double rack and some offset nuts you can sew it up. Tough to set the TR off the anchors without drag over that edge though... maybe a #3 or #4 camalot would help with that? And per the other comments, it is fast and simple to set up a quick anchor for the belay.
Jan 7, 2012
FFA: Roger Breedlove, Alan Bard, 5/1973
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Feb 14, 2013
just to keep the rumor mill in check: the climber who died was stephen ross. he had one piece in and it pulled. the belayer was 'fine' and stephen would most likely have lived if he had worn a helmet, he died of head trauma, but was alive after the fall...
|By the professor|
Oct 26, 2013
The "Lower Merced Canyon" ratings (e.g. Arch Rock, The Cookie) are a bit stiffer than those in the Valley proper. Beverly's Tower is a physical and strenuous lead not to be underestimated despite a rating of "only" 5.10a.
From: Vacaville Ca.
Oct 27, 2013
The "Lower Merced Canyon" ratings (e.g. Arch Rock, The Cookie) are a bit stiffer than those in the Valley proper.
Not that I've noticed. They always seemed about the same throughout to me.
|By Wesley Szehner|
Jul 11, 2014
Awesome route! Awesome roof finish! Gotta get that stem on!