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 ADVANCED
The Cookie Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock 
America's Cup 
Anathema 
Beverly's Tower 
Butterballs 
Butterfingers 
Catchy 
Catchy Corner 
Chicken Delight 
Cleft, The 
Cookie Left Side 
Cookie Monster 
Cookie-Center, The 
Cookie-Right, The 
Crack-a-Go-Go 
Dynamite Crack 
Elevator Shaft, The 
Enema, The 
Enigma, The 
Hardd 
Jardine's Hand 
Meat Grinder 
Outer Limits 
Pringles 
Red Zinger 
Stigma, The 
Twilight Zone 
Twinkie 
Vendetta 
Waverly Wafer 
Wheat Thin 
Unsorted Routes:

Beverly's Tower 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gerry Czamanske and Warren Harding 1959, FFA: Roger Breedlove, Alan Bard, May 1973
Page Views: 2,863
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 9, 2006
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Description 

This pitch provides a moderate approach pitch to the classic routes, Butterfingers, Butterballs, and Wheat Thin. Fun pitch that has some good stemming through a dihedral and reasonable protection. Continue above to bolts on ledge that serves as the start for the upper routes.


Location 

Locate Meatgrider(large crack in dihedral)and Cookie Monster( 5.13a bolted route up overhanging arete) after making the approach. From here walk around to the right of the cliff traversing along a small sloping path to gain the start of this one. You will be above a 30 foot section of cliff band at this point.


Protection 

Standard Rack. Small Cams useful at the start, up to hand size for the top.



Comments on Beverly's Tower Add Comment
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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 10, 2007

May not be a good line to push your limit on. Tricky, thin (and bomber once you get it right) gear from awkward stances on the bottom third. There was a fatal fall from this section a while back.

By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

I've heard that the fatal fall on this route was from a leader who didn't have any pro yet, and the belayer didn't make an anchor on the belay ledge, so they both took a 30 foot plunge onto jagged boulders.

So -- set up an anchor on the ledge! It takes a couple minutes, but it's worth it.

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 11, 2010

pretty solid .10a and in your face right off the deck lead to a good rest then some fun stems and a cool roof with several options to the top.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2011

I thought this pitch was really good! And a great warmup for the wall. The gear is also not bad at all. Sure you have to climb above it a little but with a double rack and some offset nuts you can sew it up. Tough to set the TR off the anchors without drag over that edge though... maybe a #3 or #4 camalot would help with that? And per the other comments, it is fast and simple to set up a quick anchor for the belay.

By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FFA: Roger Breedlove, Alan Bard, 5/1973

By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Feb 14, 2013

just to keep the rumor mill in check: the climber who died was stephen ross. he had one piece in and it pulled. the belayer was 'fine' and stephen would most likely have lived if he had worn a helmet, he died of head trauma, but was alive after the fall...

By the professor
Oct 26, 2013

The "Lower Merced Canyon" ratings (e.g. Arch Rock, The Cookie) are a bit stiffer than those in the Valley proper. Beverly's Tower is a physical and strenuous lead not to be underestimated despite a rating of "only" 5.10a.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Oct 27, 2013

The "Lower Merced Canyon" ratings (e.g. Arch Rock, The Cookie) are a bit stiffer than those in the Valley proper.

Not that I've noticed. They always seemed about the same throughout to me.