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BETA PHOTO: Beulah's Book
This is a great route with varied climbing. Approach as for Solar Slab Gully, but head left and along a ledge system before reaching the base of the gully. Squeeze past a couple of trees to the base of the first pitch.
P1- (5.6) Go up a short dihedral and step left at a chockstone. Continue up past a bolt and up the face to a nice belay ledge below the chimney. It also looked possible to step into an easy chimney shortly after the bolt which leads to the same belay ledge.
P2- Enter the obvious chimney and climb up past a bolt (5.9). Exit the chimney, and head up the great dihedral above (5.9). Step left at the top to a two bolt belay.
P3- Climb up and right across the slab above (5.5 no pro) and continue up through intermittent cracks to the large terrace below Solar Slab. This pitch was a full 60m.
Either descend Solar Slab Gully from here or finish the day on Solar Slab.
Take pro to 4".
Scrambling up the blocky chimney, pitch 1. Photo ...
BETA PHOTO: Solar Slab Wall
Right side in, or right side out? Pondering the O...
The Arete Variation on Pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: Crux lieback on Pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Beulah's Book bomb bay crux
Top of p2. Spectactular
Jonny at the bomb bay
Jonny on Beulah's Book p2 bolted arete variation. ...
crux section on second pitch
climber at the top of the 2nd pitch - taken from j...
from Johnny Vegas
BETA PHOTO: arete variation on P2
5.9 lieback ("the book") - could have used a secon...
looking back toward civilization
Joel Bruhn on the P2 variation.
Joel Bruhn on the P2 variation, second bolt.
Joel Bruhn on the P2 variation, landscape format.
Joel Bruhn on the P2 dihedral.
Close up of Joel Bruhn on the P2 dihedral.
Kampe working up first pitch
Kampe working the wide moves
following up the $$$ pitch.
|Comments on Beulah's Book
|By John Peterson|
Mar 8, 2004
My favorite Solar Slab start. The 5.9 section is short and well protected - sort of a mini-Epinphrine. The layback is really sweet too. It's really just a 1 pitch climb though - nothing of note on the 1st or 3rd pitches.
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 29, 2004
One #4 Camalot (or equivalent) provides additional reassurance while pulling through the awkward crux on the second pitch.
|By Stephen Langley|
Apr 3, 2005
Try the arete variuation to the second pitch. It goes out to the left arete (bolted) and returns to the crack above the chimney crux move then takes the standard line up the lie back. It's about 5.9 with some bolts, a 2" cam, two slings on horns
|By Larry DeAngelo|
Apr 4, 2005
Expanding on the previous comment-- there is a mostly independent variation immediately to the left of the standard route. Begin in a small dihedral just to the left of the big corner. A few feet below the roof, step to the right to reach easy face climbing in the vicinity of the bolt on the standard route. From here, go straight up, then follow the arete for pitch 2. I don't know any FA details, but I refer to this route as "Beulah's Pamphlet" because it is smaller than the book...
|By John Hegyes|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 20, 2006
Indeed the bomb bay crux section on p2 protects well with an old style #4 Camalot. I found the new style C4 Camalot #4 to be a little on the small side and wished I had brought my C4 #5 instead.
|By Danny Inman|
Oct 10, 2006
This is a great route. The second pitch is long and classic. We climbed this to get to solar slab. The combination makes for a very memorable climb.
|By Dr. Evil|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 26, 2007
This is a great route. If you liked Epinephrine - or you're thinking of doing Epinephrine - you should definitely try this route. It's very fun, and is easier than it looks.
We did this route as a start to Sunflower and thought the linkup was great fun.
|By Andrew Carson|
From: Wilson, WY
Jan 31, 2009
There's a bolt just as you start the third pitch, and, although pro is not easy and obvious, we got in a few good pieces on this section and thought it pretty decent for the level of difficulty.
|By Chris Winter|
From: Portland, OR
Mar 30, 2009
The 2nd pitch is fantastic with amazing views under your feet from the bomber jugs at the top of the pitch. Don't wuss out and take the bolted face climb variation - climb the natural line up the chimney. Its spectacular and not that hard.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 26, 2012
This is a very good route. I would say that the 2nd pitch might be one of the best 5.9 pitches in the park. A new style #4 Camalot does protect the chimney moves quite well if seated correctly. Use runners, duh, or have rope drag.