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Betzensteiner Sportkletterwand

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Sportkletterwand (Proper) 

Betzensteiner Sportkletterwand Rock Climbing 

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Location: 49.6809, 11.409 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,079
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Aug 26, 2011
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Betzensteiner Sportkletterwand, taken from the rig...


A fun little crag that's easy to get to and shaded. The harder routes here typically begin hard and get easier as you go up. This is due to the fact that they overhang greatly in the beginning, then progress to vertical. This can make it pretty easy to tick off some hard grades. In that light, the ratings in this area aren't usually simply a conversion of the UIAA rating given in the guidebook.
Unfortunately, many of the routes on the right stay wet for a long time, so if you're only visiting, you might be disappointed if it's been raining recently.

Getting There 

From Erlangen, follow the signs to Gräfenberg. Continue driving down this road (the 2) through Gräfenberg towards Hiltpoltstein. Drive through Hiltpoltstein and continue driving until you get to Leupoldstein. In Leupoldstein, take a right at the big intersection right on the edge of town to head to Betzenstein. Drive past the Campingplatz Betzenstein (a cool place to stay with lots of climbing in the surrounding area), past the Freibad (swimming pool) on your left, and take the next right to get to a parking area. Park here.
Walk back to the entrance of the parking area, cross the street, and walk into the field beyond. There is a path directly across from the entrance to the parking lot that leads straight to the forest. When you get closer, you'll notice a rock formation in front of you hidden by the trees. This is the Nebenmassiv. At the edge of the trees, head left to get to the main Sportkletterwand.

Climbing Season

For the Frankenjura area.

Weather station 21.4 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',2]

Featured Route For Betzensteiner Sportkletterwand

Hexenmeister 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Europe : Germany : ... : Sportkletterwand (Proper)
Climb up the overhanging beginning through some big holds to reach the first bolt. Make a couple of reaches and you're through the crux and clipping the second bolt. Continue up to the anchor, which is right next to a sling.The name means Witchmaster....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Betzensteiner Sportkletterwand Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Take this trail from the parking lot to the crag. ...
Take this trail from the parking lot to the crag. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow this trail to the Sportkletterwand proper.
Follow this trail to the Sportkletterwand proper.

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