A fun little crag that's easy to get to and shaded. The harder routes here typically begin hard and get easier as you go up. This is due to the fact that they overhang greatly in the beginning, then progress to vertical. This can make it pretty easy to tick off some hard grades. In that light, the ratings in this area aren't usually simply a conversion of the UIAA rating given in the guidebook. Unfortunately, many of the routes on the right stay wet for a long time, so if you're only visiting, you might be disappointed if it's been raining recently.
From Erlangen, follow the signs to Gräfenberg. Continue driving down this road (the 2) through Gräfenberg towards Hiltpoltstein. Drive through Hiltpoltstein and continue driving until you get to Leupoldstein. In Leupoldstein, take a right at the big intersection right on the edge of town to head to Betzenstein. Drive past the Campingplatz Betzenstein (a cool place to stay with lots of climbing in the surrounding area), past the Freibad (swimming pool) on your left, and take the next right to get to a parking area. Park here. Walk back to the entrance of the parking area, cross the street, and walk into the field beyond. There is a path directly across from the entrance to the parking lot that leads straight to the forest. When you get closer, you'll notice a rock formation in front of you hidden by the trees. This is the Nebenmassiv. At the edge of the trees, head left to get to the main Sportkletterwand.
Climb up the overhang on big holds. There is one hold which is often a bit damp and slippery, and another with a little spike in it that hurts like hell. Also, pay attention to your footwork, because if your foot pops off, you're likely coming off. Power through the moves following chalked holds or instinct to the sling. Stand up and head up much easier rock to the anchor....[more]Browse More Classics in International