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 ADVANCED
Sundance Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adrenaline T 
Banana Peels T 
Betwixt'em T 
Bonzo T 
Bushes T 
Cajun Capers T 
Chain of Command T,S 
Covert Action T 
Curve Grande 
English Opening T 
Eumenides T 
Firebird 
Grapevine T 
Great Roof Bypass T 
Guillotine, The T 
Hemp Necktie T 
Hurley-Neri T 
Idiot Wind T 
Jet Stream T 
Kor's Flake T 
Last Gasp T 
Laura Scudders T 
Mainliner T 
Mr President T 
Nose, The T 
Precipitation T 
Progression T 
Redman T 
Sidetrack T 
Slim Pickens T 
Turnkorner T 
Turnkorner Direct T 
Under the Big Top 
Under The Sundress T 
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 
Whiteman T 

Betwixt'em 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 550', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Westbay ,Snively , 1982.
Page Views: 3,876
Submitted By: S. Kimball on Jan 1, 2002

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I'm at the first belay described in Scott's descri...

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Description 

A trilogy, if you will, of 5.9 Sundance Buttress Classics: Mainliner, Sidetrack and between them, Betwix'em. There is a third pitch to this route, but we optioned for Mainliner's stemming crux pitch.

#1. Start a few feet left of Mainliner up a 4 inch 5.7 crack. From the pillar top, follow knobs up a corner with a grass hummock to a left-leaning (5.6R) ramp and belay atop this feature in a blocky crack. This point may be reached a bit more directly by nice 5.8/9 handjamming via a traverse left through a Thimbleberry patch.

#2 This pitch is especially sweet. Follow vertical 5.9 cracks, first staying left then finally arching right over black knobs and flakes (excellent protection) to a good belay on or near Mainliner.

Protection 

Standard Lumpy, many stoppers to #4 Friend.


Photos of Betwixt'em Slideshow Add Photo
Above all the major difficulties on the second pitch.
Above all the major difficulties on the second pit...

Comments on Betwixt'em Add Comment
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By Errett Allen
Sep 7, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A great and very seldom traveled alternative to Mainliner or Sidetrack. It's a bit dirtier than those routes due to lack of traffic, but the climbing is steep, interesting and on very high quality rock with good pro. See attached photos for route finding beta on the 5.9 second pitch. The 5.6 third pitch is easy but high quality and puts you right at the base of Sidetracks upper crux pitch, which is a great way to finish up this route.
By Anonymous Coward
May 23, 2005

Did this route again for the second time recently. A route-finding comment: On the second pitch about 20-30 feet above the first belay, the crack splits. The right-hand crack looks clean and beautiful and you may be tempted to go that way, but DON'T. The left-hand crack which mostly goes straight up, may look steep and intimidating and one section looks hard to protect. In fact, the climbing is superb and you can get many rests and excellent pro the whole way. This pitch is incredibly good and you will be missing out to pass it by.
By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Jul 20, 2009

For P1 we stayed to the left of the pillar, aim for then go up a short, clean, left-facing corner, continue up angling right until underneath ledge and big bush. At ledge, traverse left until under the nice crack you see from the ground. Top of corner and big bush is seen in the routes photo.

About 100 higher the crack splits, we went left until it ended, then began a harrowing traverse 20' left to middle Sidetrack's wide crack pitch. Couple of RP placements.

If you can do the traverse lower there may be better pro? We did this traverse because there did not look like much pro above cracks end.

Traversing earlier is probably the better bet since there will be more to the wide crack pitch which is fun. This is the only place you will place a #4 camo IF you bring it.

We wished we would have brought the 70m.