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This route is an awesome and moderate way to summit Moro from Zocalo ledge or from the bottom. But you'll notice that this route is in the upper middle section of Moro, so you actually have to climb another route to get to it. Fortunately the other route is the same grade, making this path a great and exposed way to the patio ledge. And it's only 5.8! But be sure you're confident at the grade, because you can't pull through the slab.
The Approach: pitch 1.Walk to the furthest right(south) side of Zocalo ledge, you'll see two bolts with rap rings on them, you can clip these as your anchor. Climb the crack directly above the bolts. Step on to the small ledge ,twenty feet up, and place a piece high(.3-.5"). Traverse right onto a rising dike that leads into a corner. Follow the corner to a large ledge and either use the bolts to the left or build an anchor to the right.
Pitch 2. Walk to the right side of this ledge and start up a 5.6 off-width. You'll get to a hand sized horizontal crack, place here and the climb straight up and slightly right into the slab(exposed 5.8 Crux). You'll get to a small corner that'll take good pro. Go up and traverse left for a bit till you find a good spot to belay. A 70m is needed to safely belay on the ledge to the left, with a 60m you'll just end up cutting the traverse short to Belay, or the leader may end up belaying the second on a slung stick under a couple of rocks!
The Route: Now to start the route! Pitch 1: Once you arrive at the ledge, climb the right-slanting finger crack that leads into a dihedral, continue up the dihedral(5.8) and belay in the alcove.
Pitch 2: The shortest but sweetest pitch. The alcove is capped with a roof that has a couple cracks underneath tha take you from under it. Travers along these cracks until you pull around the roof, enjoy the exposure, and summit on the Patio Ledge. Success! Bask in the cheers of the tourists above!
Locating this may seem difficult but once you're on route, it's quite straight forward. Rappel down to Zocalo ledge, walk to the very far right side of this ledge, to the two-bolt anchor. Start here.
The walk off from the patio isn't terribly straight forward and is 3rd class but a fall could be horrible and lead to death and whatnot. Once you're on the ledge go to the left side and scramble up some easy slab and then follow the wall too the right, turn an exposed corner and climb the small ravine to the stairway. Some may want a rope.
Doubles from fingers to 2". One 3" and 4"(for the off-width)
Two 60 meters needed to rap, or a 60m and a 70m
From: Visalia, CA
Apr 23, 2014
Rene' Ardesch was on the FA with Cook