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 ADVANCED
The South Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T,S 
Bad Boys Bolt T 
Beer for Breakfast T 
Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 
Birdland T 
Black Market T 
Blackstreak TR 
Dirty Love T 
Fun Flake T 
Funkativity T 
Go Spuds Go T 
Good Girls Don't T 
Grey Rat Rocksicle T 
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 
Shadow Dance S 
Slab Happy S 
Sugar Mountain T 
Two Minds Meet T 
Wigs on Fire T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Between Nothingness and Eternity 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Craig Luebben, Malcolm Daly, 1989
Page Views: 1,268
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jan 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is a really good slab with quite a bit of variety, and it's very well-protected! The crux comes right away at the steepest part with a couple super thin, hard cranks, high steps and thumb mantles. When the angle kicks back, the finger holds seem to disappear and it is .11/.10 friction action. The upper section is 5.4ish terrain.

#1 of the "CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes).
#2 is Frisky Puppies (Donahue/Harvey). A funky, sustained friction-paddling and smedging pitch at Lumpy Ridge on the Book.
#3 is Blood For Oil (also Luebben) on Combat Rock, for a friction slab and patina steep face/slab pitch and a bulge to steep slab 2nd pitch.

Honorable mentions:

  • ** Radlands Of Infinity on Blob Rock (1st pitch is crux and it's a scratch-fest/ 2nd pitch is thin crack and funky slab---link pitches)
  • **Razor Hein Stick on Bitty Buttress (short but fierce friction bumps)


Location 

This is on the South Slabs, Lower Tier and off the left side of the mini-ledge. It is the right side water streaks... and the leftmost bolted route.


Protection 

Bolts...I would recommend running up the ramp to set up the anchor first (perhaps there is a bolted anchor).

Per Mojo Stylee: "there's no fixed pro past the 3rd bolt (if there still is a third bolt)."



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