Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Star Wars Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Between a Rock and a Hard Place T 
Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market T 
Light Sabre T 
Through the Hole and Up The Wall T 
Thumbs Down Left T 
Walking on the Moon T 

Between a Rock and a Hard Place 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro, Toivo Kodas, and Vaino Kodas, 1981
Page Views: 3,490
Submitted By: Will S on Feb 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Leading the unique and awesome Between A Rock And ...

Description 

This leaning, almost bombay squeeze chimney is great entertainment for climbers and spectators alike. If you go with the proper side in, the crux is a few feet below where it turns the lip onto the vertical face. Good squeeze technique will see you through the crux, then you're into the fists and soon onto the face where the crack is low angle & easy. If setting a TR on this, be prepared with a good length of static line, you'll want to extend the anchor quite a ways below the top due to a rope pinching chockstone in the crack.

Location 

About 60' right and downhill of Light Sabre, on the next large boulder. The obvious right angling squeeze chimney in a dihedral.

Protection 

Big and bigger.


Photos of Between a Rock and a Hard Place Slideshow Add Photo
Leading the unique and awesome Between A Rock And A Hard Place.  Photo by Andre.  Dec 2013.
Leading the unique and awesome Between A Rock And ...
Dick Cilley on a very early ascent.
Dick Cilley on a very early ascent.
"Between a Rock and a Hard Place". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Between a Rock and a Hard Place". Photo...
Starting the climb.
Starting the climb.
Between a Rock and Hard Place
Between a Rock and Hard Place
Leading the unique and awesome Between A Rock And A Hard Place.  Photo by Andre.  Dec 2013.
Leading the unique and awesome Between A Rock And ...
Between a Rock and a Hard Place
Between a Rock and a Hard Place

Comments on Between a Rock and a Hard Place Add Comment
Show which comments
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 18, 2007

Absolutely classic squeeze chimney, and a must do if you're in the area for Light Sabre etc. Five stars if it was twice as long. So, which side in? You'll figure it out. Go get on it, this thing is GOOD!
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 18, 2007

This thing *is* fantastic! A must do for any wide fiend.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Nov 17, 2008

Well I'm impressed, just looking at this thing made me hurt. 10b? Guess you can label me just another gym climber.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Nov 23, 2008

This thing is classic! Why no stars in the Vogel guide?
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Feb 9, 2010

The Vogel guide doesn't give Centurion any stars either...maybe he just doesn't like the Wide.

But yes. This is one of the best squeeze chimneys I have ever climbed...I spent about 10 minutes at the exit move trying to find a way to clamber out...
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 26, 2010

Classy wide crack!
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 16, 2014

Is it Indian?