|Star Wars Rock
Between a Rock and a Hard Place
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Yaniro, Toivo Kodas, and Vaino Kodas, 1981|
|Page Views: ||3,315|
|Submitted By: ||Will S on Feb 18, 2007|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Leading the unique and awesome Between A Rock And ...
This leaning, almost bombay squeeze chimney is great entertainment for climbers and spectators alike. If you go with the proper side in, the crux is a few feet below where it turns the lip onto the vertical face. Good squeeze technique will see you through the crux, then you're into the fists and soon onto the face where the crack is low angle & easy. If setting a TR on this, be prepared with a good length of static line, you'll want to extend the anchor quite a ways below the top due to a rope pinching chockstone in the crack.
About 60' right and downhill of Light Sabre, on the next large boulder. The obvious right angling squeeze chimney in a dihedral.
Big and bigger.
|Photos of Between a Rock and a Hard Place Slideshow
|Comments on Between a Rock and a Hard Place
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 18, 2007
Absolutely classic squeeze chimney, and a must do if you're in the area for Light Sabre etc. Five stars if it was twice as long. So, which side in? You'll figure it out. Go get on it, this thing is GOOD!
|By Russ Walling|
Feb 18, 2007
This thing *is* fantastic! A must do for any wide fiend.
|By Ryan Kelly|
Nov 17, 2008
Well I'm impressed, just looking at this thing made me hurt. 10b? Guess you can label me just another gym climber.
|By Scotty Nelson|
Nov 23, 2008
This thing is classic! Why no stars in the Vogel guide?
|By David Aguasca!|
From: New York
Feb 9, 2010
The Vogel guide doesn't give Centurion any stars either...maybe he just doesn't like the Wide.
But yes. This is one of the best squeeze chimneys I have ever climbed...I spent about 10 minutes at the exit move trying to find a way to clamber out...
From: Oakland CA
Nov 26, 2010
Classy wide crack!
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 16, 2014
Is it Indian?