Login with Facebook
Picnic Rock
Select Route:
10,000 Teeth 
Amateur, The 
Andy's Dyno 
Andy's Problem  
Back side of Lushes Lip 
Back Slapper 
Back Slapper Traverse 
beefstick buffet 
Betty's Pie 
Budda Boulder, The 
Counselor Moon 
Easy Crack 
Enter the Dragon 
Exodus, The 
Ezekiel's Prophecy 
IPOD Army 
Jim's Exit  
Juggernaut, The 
Luke's Jaws  
Lukewarm Persistance 
Lushes Lip Traverse 
My Stereo 
No Mas 
onion left slab 
Onion, The 
Origins of Symmetry  
Pit Fall 
Poppy Cock 
Prow, The 
Puffer Cheeks 
Purple Rain 
Seamstress, The 
Smoking Man SDS, The 
Smoking Man Stand Start, The 
Sticky Icky 
Time is Running Out 
Umberger Helper 
Unknown Soilder 
Vag Badger 
Veyron Arete: (Was The Turnstile Project) 
Warm Up Slab Shorty 
Warm-Up Slab 
Woodchipper , The 
Woodpecker , The 

Betty's Pie 

Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+ [details]
FA: Jim Merlie
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: Sean Butler on Oct 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Dream Scheme


A really fun climb with some cool moves. start on the left side of face, work up arrete on crimps until you have to roll through right into the sloping top out. A lower start is probably possible.


From the warm up slab walk to the right and down the hill. the boulder is just up from the backside of poppy cock and vag bager


a few pads

Comments on Betty's Pie Add Comment
Show which comments
By Oklobzija
Oct 19, 2009
rating: V5+ 6C+

has been done,
Fa Jim Merlie.


I will ask him, good work. I tried that thing and thought it was hard.
By t sweeney
Oct 19, 2009

i told you that was done before butler.....jeez! alittle anxious for the FA eh?

just kidding.. this is such a sweet prob. nice job
By Oklobzija
Oct 19, 2009
rating: V5+ 6C+


Yo, I am not sure where you started but Jim showed me the problem a year or so ago? I couldn't even move really. From what I remember it was hard. He called it a 6 from a lower hold? I think that grade is ridiculous.

Is there a Hold on the face? I remember trying the start from a hold on the face???? but I could be wrong.

Brian Camp also did a weird little problem Down and left (if you are looking at Vag Bagger) He called it a 5 or 6? I have never done it and have not seen it in awhile but remember it looking kinda cool.
By Sean Butler
Oct 19, 2009

There is a hold on the face that could be used for a matched start (the possible "lower" start I was referring to)

We were starting with a right hand on that face hold and left hand on a sloper on the arete.

This past weekend was the first time I've seen this boulder and I can't believe it doesn't get more traffic. Super fun.
By Oklobzija
Oct 19, 2009
rating: V5+ 6C+

Yeah Jim started matched on that "lower" start.

There are tons of neglected boulders at Sawmill. I think with some work and brushes 50+ new problems could go up.
By Oklobzija
Oct 19, 2009
rating: V5+ 6C+

He called it

Betty's Pie
By Oklobzija
Oct 30, 2009
rating: V5+ 6C+

my estimated beta puts it at v7? the first move was hard.
By Sean Butler
Nov 9, 2009

I agree the first move feels pretty hard.
By Oklobzija
Oct 25, 2010
rating: V5+ 6C+

The proper start to "Betty's Pies" is matched on the rail make some tricky moves to the arete and then head up and right following the arete. Really good climb.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 30, 2011

lower start hold may have busted. that first move is currently way harder than v5+.

however, starting from the stand (two side-by-side crimps in a crack feature) still leaves a fun problem. the stand is probably v5.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!