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Betty's Pie V5+
| 553 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Boulder, 12 feet |
| Consensus: | V5+ [details] |
| FA: | Jim Merlie |
| Submitted By: | Sean Butler on Oct 17, 2009 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: Dream Scheme
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Description A really fun climb with some cool moves. start on the left side of face, work up arrete on crimps until you have to roll through right into the sloping top out. A lower start is probably possible.
Location From the warm up slab walk to the right and down the hill. the boulder is just up from the backside of poppy cock and vag bager
Protection a few pads
By nicros fivten Oct 19, 2009 rating: V5+
| has been done, Fa Jim Merlie. Name???? I will ask him, good work. I tried that thing and thought it was hard. |
By t sweeney Oct 19, 2009
| i told you that was done before butler.....jeez! alittle anxious for the FA eh? just kidding.. this is such a sweet prob. nice job |
By nicros fivten Oct 19, 2009 rating: V5+
| hahahah, Yo, I am not sure where you started but Jim showed me the problem a year or so ago? I couldn't even move really. From what I remember it was hard. He called it a 6 from a lower hold? I think that grade is ridiculous. Is there a Hold on the face? I remember trying the start from a hold on the face???? but I could be wrong. Brian Camp also did a weird little problem Down and left (if you are looking at Vag Bagger) He called it a 5 or 6? I have never done it and have not seen it in awhile but remember it looking kinda cool. |
By Sean Butler Oct 19, 2009
| There is a hold on the face that could be used for a matched start (the possible "lower" start I was referring to) We were starting with a right hand on that face hold and left hand on a sloper on the arete. This past weekend was the first time I've seen this boulder and I can't believe it doesn't get more traffic. Super fun. |
By nicros fivten Oct 19, 2009 rating: V5+
| Yeah Jim started matched on that "lower" start. There are tons of neglected boulders at Sawmill. I think with some work and brushes 50+ new problems could go up. |
By nicros fivten Oct 30, 2009 rating: V5+
| my estimated beta puts it at v7? the first move was hard. |
By Sean Butler Nov 9, 2009
| I agree the first move feels pretty hard. |
By nicros fivten Oct 25, 2010 rating: V5+
| The proper start to "Betty's Pies" is matched on the rail make some tricky moves to the arete and then head up and right following the arete. Really good climb. |
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN May 30, 2011
| lower start hold may have busted. that first move is currently way harder than v5+. however, starting from the stand (two side-by-side crimps in a crack feature) still leaves a fun problem. the stand is probably v5. |
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