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Picnic Rock
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Vag Badger 
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Woodpecker , The 

Betty's Pie 

Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+ [details]
FA: Jim Merlie
Page Views: 604
Submitted By: Sean Butler on Oct 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Dream Scheme

Description 

A really fun climb with some cool moves. start on the left side of face, work up arrete on crimps until you have to roll through right into the sloping top out. A lower start is probably possible.

Location 

From the warm up slab walk to the right and down the hill. the boulder is just up from the backside of poppy cock and vag bager

Protection 

a few pads


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By nicros fivten
Oct 19, 2009
rating: V5+ 6C+

has been done,
Fa Jim Merlie.

Name????

I will ask him, good work. I tried that thing and thought it was hard.
By t sweeney
Oct 19, 2009

i told you that was done before butler.....jeez! alittle anxious for the FA eh?

just kidding.. this is such a sweet prob. nice job
By nicros fivten
Oct 19, 2009
rating: V5+ 6C+

hahahah,


Yo, I am not sure where you started but Jim showed me the problem a year or so ago? I couldn't even move really. From what I remember it was hard. He called it a 6 from a lower hold? I think that grade is ridiculous.

Is there a Hold on the face? I remember trying the start from a hold on the face???? but I could be wrong.

Brian Camp also did a weird little problem Down and left (if you are looking at Vag Bagger) He called it a 5 or 6? I have never done it and have not seen it in awhile but remember it looking kinda cool.
By Sean Butler
Oct 19, 2009

There is a hold on the face that could be used for a matched start (the possible "lower" start I was referring to)

We were starting with a right hand on that face hold and left hand on a sloper on the arete.

This past weekend was the first time I've seen this boulder and I can't believe it doesn't get more traffic. Super fun.
By nicros fivten
Oct 19, 2009
rating: V5+ 6C+

Yeah Jim started matched on that "lower" start.

There are tons of neglected boulders at Sawmill. I think with some work and brushes 50+ new problems could go up.
By nicros fivten
Oct 19, 2009
rating: V5+ 6C+

He called it

Betty's Pie
By nicros fivten
Oct 30, 2009
rating: V5+ 6C+

my estimated beta puts it at v7? the first move was hard.
By Sean Butler
Nov 9, 2009

I agree the first move feels pretty hard.
By nicros fivten
Oct 25, 2010
rating: V5+ 6C+

The proper start to "Betty's Pies" is matched on the rail make some tricky moves to the arete and then head up and right following the arete. Really good climb.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 30, 2011

lower start hold may have busted. that first move is currently way harder than v5+.

however, starting from the stand (two side-by-side crimps in a crack feature) still leaves a fun problem. the stand is probably v5.