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Cracker Jack Cliffs
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Total Lack of Jack S 
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Walking the Plank S 
You Don't Know Jack $%^ S 

Betty Cracker 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Deidre Burton
Page Views: 1,869
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Placing some gear

Description 

Yet another good moderate

Location 

Two routes left of the corner

Protection 

5 bolts to anchors


Photos of Betty Cracker Slideshow Add Photo
Jared at the layback section of "Betty Cracker".  Not too often you get really fun movement on a route at this grade.
Jared at the layback section of "Betty Cracker". ...
Brian almost to the anchors of "Betty Cracker", best route in this corner area!!!
Brian almost to the anchors of "Betty Cracker", be...
Going for the gear only lead on Betty Cracker
Going for the gear only lead on Betty Cracker
cheers for no bolts!
cheers for no bolts!

Comments on Betty Cracker Add Comment
Show which comments
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 30, 2006

IMHO the best moderate at the Cracker Jack Cliffs and certainly the best 5.9 out of this group of four route right next to each other in the same corner. This route should not be missed and is well protected.
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 7, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Definitely on the easy end of 5.9, compared to the others in the area (except You Don't Know... which is even easier). I agree that it is the best of the 9s in this corner.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 2, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This corridor seems to get a lot of traffic. I urge all climber to use quickdraws at the anchor while toproping. Even if you're with a newbie who can't break it down when you're finished. What's worse...you doing the route twice or the anchor failing due to excessive wear?

~Susan
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 23, 2010

someone added mussy hooks which is just plain righteous.
By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Mar 28, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I led this one completely on gear and it made it a really fun route. It was very doable for anyone that Trad's near the grade. It's a little bit run out after the crack stops, but A #3 camalot looked like it would fit in a pod really well or you have the option to girth hitch a sling through a pod. I'm not sure it would hold a fall, but it gives a little piece of mind for the easy climbing to the top.

Nice part about this climb is if a leader wanted to push their grade on this one and got sketched, they could always just clip a bolt, but the gear is so bomber I don't think you'd need too.

Gear: Set of nuts (you can sew that crack up); and .5-3 camalots for the horizontals.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jul 6, 2010

Nice, not only leading it on gear but downrating it as well. I'm gonna tell Dee!!!
By eric snay
May 23, 2011

fun
By SHOPE
From: Tacoma, WA
Mar 14, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Takes passive pro like a champ!