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The Castle
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L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 crack climb 
Betterman 
Camel Walk, The 
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 
Dalke - Jennings 
Dewitt Route 
Dungeon, The 
Great Chimney Route 
Guillotine 
Hardgumbi's Lament 
Nose, The 
Rapunzel 
Schmauser - Bohannon Route 
Southeast Gully 
Throne Room 
Uncle Wiggly 
Wiggins Route 
Winterlude 
You Can't Chop This 

Betterman 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 116
Submitted By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 15, 2013
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Description 

This may be an even better variation than Castle Corner, at least it seemed that way to me.

P1 Climb the first pitch of Castle Corner.

P2 5.10c Climb the crack that heads straight up the right wall of the corner.

P3 5.10b Follow the right hand of two possible cracks on up the right wall of the dihedral to the top.


Location 

Same the start as for Castle Corner.


Protection 

Gear to 3".



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