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 ADVANCED
Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ariel T 
Armed Forces S 
Arms Reduction T 
Army T 
Better Than Better Than Love T 
Better than Love T 
Casual Slabs T 
Forget Me Not T 
Guardian, The S 
Gunky T 
Inscrutable T 
Like Hell It Is T 
Love T 
Seeker, The T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Wanderer, The T 
What, What? TR 
Who, Who? T 

Better Than Better Than Love 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
New Route: Yes
Season: Any but winter
Page Views: 515
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 4, 2007

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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This has good clean rock and occasional but solid protection for a good trad leader.

    'Better Than Better Than Love' is better than 'Better Than Love', but as it is almost universally accepted that 'Better Than Love' is no better than 'Love,' it should be understood that it is not implied that 'Better Than Better Than Love' is not better than 'Love.'

    This particular line starts on a clean face and goes up to a hidden, horizontal, 2" crack, 5 meters up, then past a flake on the left with a tiny pine growing from behind it, then up a short and small, right-facing corner, past this to a crack and slab to the top. The crux is encountered just above the tree in a clean corner but can be escaped by bumping out left onto good face holds.


    Location 

    Down the hill from the Like Heaven summit there is a clean wall that is less than vertical. Several climbable features are here in solid, clean stone. Perhaps the lack of salient characteristics on this wall are the cause of the undocumented lines here, many of which have must have been climbed even in antiquity.

    This climb is perhaps 50 meters downhill from the West face of the Like Heaven summit.


    Protection 

    A set of hand-sized cams and a few larger nuts or tricams. Place a good directional up top before scrambling uphill 10 meters to a tree with a cordalette and biner to rap. I should have made the cord shorter or longer, but I didn't have a knife or more cord- maybe someone will swap it out.



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