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This intricate and enjoyable climb takes the faint crack system between the "real" South Face and Prune Face. Start a couple of feet left of Prune Face and angle left to the crack system. Follow this to the top, passing a couple of cruxes and some tricky pro. Save a #3 RP for the crux at the obvious, very thin crack halfway up the face! Adequate pro, but not a good climb for leaders at their limit on 5.9.
Standard rack. RPs are essential! Double ropes useful.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 13, 2003
Good climb. One long reach to a sharp edged scoop on the L seemed a long stretch for a 5'10" climber. Probably significantly harder for a shorter climber. Pro is really sparse. S rating at least is warranted.