Better Lucky Than Good
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BETA PHOTO: Approximate line. The headwall crack of P5 can j...
The route climbs the steep face to the left of the big dihedral of Nuggernaut
. The rock and protection are both generally good, the exception being pitch 3, which has a little looseness and some runouts above marginal gear.
P1: Start below the obvious, triangular-shaped cut-out of rock and follow vertical seams past some horizontal cracks into a rest. Climb out the left side of the roof to a crack, then some easy terrain leads to a steep finger crack. Finish on the large terrace at a big tree (5.9, 120')
P2: Climb up into a steep weakness. When it starts to look hard, move left and climb easier face and crack up to the next large ledge. Belay off gear (5.7, 150')
. The last rap anchor is to the right about 35' on the same ledge system.
P3: Go up and left from the belay, pull a cobbly bulge. Continue up/left into a short corner with a finger crack. Then climb steep face with a few cracks up to the next ledge and find a belay. This pitch doesn't have the best gear (5.8 R, 120')
P4: Move the belay about 25' to the right, then climb up/right onto a nice-quality slab with a small crack for gear. Follow this to a tree at the next large ledge. This tree is also the third rappel anchor. (5.7, 90')
P5: Climb up through some steep cracks and corners to easier terrain that leads to a steep headwall split by an angling crack. Climb the crack (wide at first) up to a large ledge with a big tree. This tree is also the second rappel anchor. (5.8+, 200')
P6: A short pitch up a right-facing corner that leads to bolts, these are the first of the rappel anchors
, scramble past the bolts to the summit (5.7, 50').
Descent: Do 5 rappels to get down. Scramble back to the bolted rap anchor. (1) Do a single rope rappel (15m) to a tree with slings. (2) Do a double rope rappel (60m) to another tree with slings. (3) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to a bolt/fixed nut anchor. (4) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to two bolts on a large ledge. (5) Do a double rope rappel (50m) to the base of Nuggernaut
Find the start about 100' to the left and 50' downhill of Nuggernaut
. Locate an obvious, triangular-shaped cut-out of rock.
(2) blue Alien - #3 Camalot
(1) #4 Camalot for P5 (opt)
(1) set of Stoppers
(2) 60m ropes.
Moving out onto the slab of Pitch 4.
Pitch 3 heads up/left towards the corner. Not hard...