Better Lock Next Time 

There is also a bolted route to the left of the first pitch. about 5.9+ face climbing. bring a couple of large cams for the top. there are no bolts to belay from the top.I rope soloed the route 9/21_03. the last two pitches are crazy! don't forget your tape gloves.

The bolted route to the left is Halogen Angels and makes a hella worthy start to Beter Lock...

Fun route. Good pro all the way up. I don't recommend doing the first 2 pitches together as the description suggest, too much rope drag.

Worthy route. Try the Halogen Angels start.

Just did this climb yesterday for my birthday. Great Climb! A must if you like bushwacking your way up to a crag. We recovered a cam that was fixed in the 10b pitch. If you can describe the cam you can have it. Looks to be a pretty cool trophy cam, someone almost tore the lobe off a brand new C4!

Charley Fowler and Kyle Copeland did the FA/FFA of this route.

Triples are not too much! We carried triple Camalots from .75 to 3 and double 4s (old 3.5) and ran out of gear on P2 and P5. On P2, after placing a mediocre small piece--almost my last piece of any size--up and right of the belay, I downclimbed about 40' to retrieve enough gear to belay off to the left. On P4 I used all of the hand-sized cams despite trying to skip pieces. P5 really wants 4 or 5 gold Camalots. We had three this year, and Chuck had to lower twice to back clean.

This climb feels hard to me. Having done this twice, P1, P2 and P5 feel like 5.9. P3 feels like 8. P4 feels like hard 10.

GREAT! route. Climbed it for the fourth time on Saturday April 10th. As usual, no one was there. Gear:

Stoppers - none! Leave them at home.
Aliens - single set green through red.
Camalot juniors - double set.
Camalots - 3 ones, 3 twos, 2 threes, 1 new style four.

I agree with the post above, the 5th pitch does soak up #2 Camalots - but that pitch is 5.8 most of the way. If you prefer to place more gear, add in another #2 Camalot.

I agree with Chris Jones, no way I would link pitch 1 and 2. Even though a couple of the pitches on this route are short, the route is best climbed without linking pitches.

A 70 meter rope is nice for pitch 2, but not necessary.

The first three times I climbed the route, I walked off left. Last time, I walked off right. Walking off right is more direct and easier.

If you want extra credit - finish up on Teepee Tower Crack for 2 more awesome pitches.

Classic. Undoubtedly the finest 5.10 (and perhaps the most strenuous 5.10) in the Platte that I’ve discovered. We carried (4) red Camalots, (4) gold Camalots, (3) blue Camalots and a standard rack with a full set of BD stoppers. The original starting pitches are worth the effort as they are fun and offer a gradual warm-up for the upper pitches ahead. Pitches 4 and 5 are sustained.

Fun climb, just wish all the pitches were as good as the last 2 dihedrals. Different style but felt easier than the crux of Rambling Rose to me. I found myself grunting more on the first couple of insecure pitches than the last two for some reason. We found the following rack to be useful: 1 set of nuts/tricams for belays pieces, singles in the small cam sizes (green Alien to green Camalot), triples in the red, yellow, blue Camalot sizes and 1 grey (#4) Camalot.
When walking off left, we encountered a long wet slab. It was possible to rap ~most~ of the way down this with a 70m, but still had to scramble down 15 feet of crud.