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Jabba Buttress
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(Enter) Sandman S 
Better Eat Yo Wheaties  S 
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Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 
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For Better Or For Worse S 
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Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!

Better Eat Yo Wheaties  

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Marcus Garcia
Season: Whenever you feel like it
Page Views: 754
Submitted By: Erik Durgin on Mar 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!

Description 

Don't let the length of this little hussy mislead you, it packs a punch (much like my ...). Very technical and bouldery climbing leads to a baller ender crux comprised of shit crimps and big moves!! If you wanna be a sissy (like me), you can TR before trying to lead it by lowering in from the long .10 to the left.

Location 

This is the shorty just right of the long .10. This is the furthest right line on Jabba Buttress.

Protection 

4 bolts with fixed anchors.


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By Erik Durgin
Mar 28, 2011

Don't be a bunch of prudes, penis jokes are funny.
By Marcus garcia
From: Durango, Co.
Jul 16, 2011

This is still one of my favorite routes. A must for anyone looking for a hard, intense, foot work route.
By Ben Kiessel
Nov 18, 2012

A hold broke off of this a couple years ago. I have not been on it since the hold broke, but I would guess it's probably quite a little bit harder than it was before.
By Nicholas Ryan Valoff
Jan 20, 2015

Gave a burn on this rig yesterday. Can't decide if using the halfway shakeout to the left of the third bolt is contrived. It seems sort of necessary for the sequence to flow, and even if you opt to go straight up, through very sandy crimps, this hold becomes a foot. Which hold broke?
By Matt Pickren
Jan 21, 2015

I'd say the "shakeout" you mentioned is not necessary. I didn't even think that was on route. The hold which broke is the last small crimp before the final big move just below the anchor.
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