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Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.4 from 20
votes
Routes in South Canyon Wall
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Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Getting The Bob S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Golden Showers S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hobo Testes S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Liquid Tofu S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Men Without Egos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ne Soyez Pas Un Poile Moilee S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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No Deck a Dunce S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spermatose S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Toprope Route T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Whiskey Dick S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Brent Kertzman & Lane Smith, Nov. '90 |
| Page Views: | 2,246 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Gram on Jun 25, 2002 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
This is the best 5.8 at Falling Rock. Directly across the canyon from Garden Party is a black limestone block semi-detached from the main cliff. This route climbs the inner corner of the block facing back towards the parking lot. It is the leftmost of three routes on this wall. It is easily identified by the horizontal gash at 1/3 height.
This route is fairly reachy moving up to and past the horizontal, but the holds are all there. Sustained classic moderate limestone face climbing.
This route is fairly reachy moving up to and past the horizontal, but the holds are all there. Sustained classic moderate limestone face climbing.
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