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The Great Black North
Routes Sorted
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Bete Noir 
Black Toe Arete 
Borg, The 
Burnt Toast, The 
Capital Outlay 
Chuana Chavaria 
Cold Feet 
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk 
Don't Make Me Shave You 
It's All Gone 
Laugh the Past Away 
Magus, The 
Resistance is Futile 
Skank to Crank 
Three Doubles 
Torch & Twang 
Tout Tout de Suite 
Tower of Power 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") 

Bete Noir 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 711
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009
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Bete Noir climbs over the daunting roof, and up th...

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The best route at the cliff, and one of the best 5.12s at Shelf, Bete Noir tackles the intimidating three-foot roof before launching up the amazing pocketed arete above. The line is long, sustained, and the upper arete is steeper and more difficult than it looks. This must-do route would be a 4-star classic at any crag in the country, though at Shelf, it's just another on a long list of world-class routes authored by the prolific Mark Van Horn.

Begin at the right end of the wall below the obvious roof. Climb easily up to a long reach up to the crook of the roof. Take a deep breath, and launch out to the lip with difficulty. Grope up over the hang, work the feet, and set up for a low-percentage crux move to get established over the lip. Milk a good rest, then proceed up the mind-blowing arete with long, technical moves between good, hidden pockets.


Immediately right of "The Burnt Toast" lies a beautiful black wall, hanging above an impressive, tan, 3' deep horizontal roof. Bete Noir climbs the right line on this wall, beginning just left of the arete.


9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Stick Clip highly recommended!

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