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Beta Slave 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: TR: T. Hanson, S. Sills, Mike Lane. Bolted, lead: Mike Lane, Richard Wright
Page Views: 2,865
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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Ben trying to solve the tricky moves of Beta Slave...
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Start 10 feet left of the large, black, water streak. Move up on some pockets to a small ledge. The crux is moving up and left to the next small ledge via a thin flake. It has delicate moves, a tricky sequence, and inobvious holds.


5 QDs to 2 cold shuts.

Photos of Beta Slave Slideshow Add Photo
Tara leading Beta Slave. Jenny belaying.
Tara leading Beta Slave. Jenny belaying.
Jen working the route
BETA PHOTO: Jen working the route
Tara Reed approaching the crux on Beta Slave
Tara Reed approaching the crux on Beta Slave
starting up...
starting up...
Ben off route (hint-try left of the bolts). Fritz stands guard.
Ben off route (hint-try left of the bolts). Fritz ...
Richard Wright took this picture of me on the FFA, February 1990.
Richard Wright took this picture of me on the FFA,...
near the top...
near the top...
Comments on Beta Slave Add Comment
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By Darin Lang
Jul 24, 2001

Fun and tricky climb, and a most appropriate route name. Harder, IMO, than Morning Glory (10d) on the other side of the canyon. The bolt protecting the crux move spins a bit and, after what must be countless 10-15 footers (I'm responsible for several), could probably use replacement. Does anyone know whether bolt replacement (same hole) is allowed at Castlewood?

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 17, 2001

Climbed this route on 8/16/01. After finishing off other 5.11's in the area on this ady, we thought to do this route to end the evening. I think there must be something missing from the route now, as the move above the 3rd bolt is quite hard, and I would say much harder than 5.10c (IMHO), perhaps more like 11b/c ?? Perhaps a key hold is missing from the route, as there are some bright, non weathered marks directly above 3rd bolt to the 4th. If anyone has any information, let me know at jeffereylockyer@hotmail.com

Ciao .

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Nov 23, 2002

Not that it matters, since we all TR'd this thing to death as the warm up while developing the other routes on this wall; but I was the bolter, namer and FFA, followed by Richard Wright. And as such, I will shortly replace the spinner crux bolt. I didn't mean to install an auto 10-footer; I just felt that with the balancing involved with gliding thru the crux a clip would be the real crux.

By Darin Lang
Apr 7, 2003

I didn't mean to suggest that the route was poorly bolted. I'd say, in fact, that it is perfectly bolted. The fall from the crux is safe and clean, and being above your gear just a tad while pulling the crux moves adds immeasurably to the fun quotient. Well done.

By tobias
From: CO
Jan 2, 2004

Cool and varied climb! One of the funnest in the area... kind of zig-zags to the top (especially if you traverse far right 20 ft up...)

By cslice
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 6, 2013

This would be one burly onsight. The moves are very sequential and difficult to find the first or second time up. It took me 3 times to find the right sequence on this, especially between bolts 3 and 4 and 5. Not exactly a feel good 5.10c, but it definitely made the hike and the outing to Castlewood worth it. I can't say much for a lot of the other stuff we climbed...pretty lame compared to a lot of the other stuff in the Front Range.

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Jul 7, 2013

^^^ Just out of curiosity, did you get on Hedgeclipper?