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Beta on Taulliraju?
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Feb 10, 2014
Hey so I'm heading to the Cordillera Blanca this July and I've been researching routes like crazy. I'm extremely intrigued by Taulliraju (who isn't?) and I came across mention of a route called the GMHM Route in this article on the Alpinist's website. alpinist.com/doc/ALP18/climbin...

Does anyone know anything more about it? Does it summit? The page above says that it goes at WI4+ M4, is that accurate? Seems too easy for a route on that peak, but I can't seem to find any other info on it anywhere. I have copies of both the Sharman and Johnson guidebooks, but they're both pretty select guides so maybe one of you out there has more info.
J Collis
From Moab
Joined Jul 10, 2010
60 points
Feb 10, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Hip trouble ...
I think this is the E face, isn't it?
Rock Climbing Photo: Talliraju!
Talliraju!
George Bell
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
6,029 points
Feb 10, 2014
Yep—that's it! Not sure what lines those two routes take though. I know the Johnson guide lists the Italian Route, which climbs a mixed couloir up that left-side buttress, but dunno about the other routes. J Collis
From Moab
Joined Jul 10, 2010
60 points
Feb 10, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Hip trouble ...
Sorry, I don't have any beta. We just hiked up under it one day to acclimatize on the way in to climb Alpamayo. I was blown away by the peak! Looks very difficult! George Bell
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
6,029 points
Feb 10, 2014
No worries—thanks for responding. Great photo BTW. Yup, pretty challenging peak, most routes seem to require mandatory sections of M6/5.10 in boots J Collis
From Moab
Joined Jul 10, 2010
60 points
Feb 11, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Profile
Take a look at the Alpinist where Taulliraju was the peak profile (Alpinist 7 maybe?), it lists all of the routes on the mountain at the time of printing. If I recall correctly, that route climbs a buttress well right of that photo and then climbs the right hand skyline to the summit. Nate Farr
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Feb 25, 2008
49 points
Feb 14, 2014
yo man, i'm driving down there now on a motorbike.going to be spending the season in peru, ive got quite a bit of experance with this stuff hit me up of find me on face book if ur looking for a partner

chears

cory hall

coryhall_norco_aline @hotmail.com
coryhall
From saint john, nb canada
Joined Jun 30, 2009
0 points
Apr 14, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: After finishing Cosmiques Arete for the second tim...
Hey John,

Taulli is a mountain as hard as Huantsan, and seldom climbed by foreign climbers, so your best option would be to head to Casa de Guiaz and find out if any of the locals have any beta on routes even if not that recent.

I know of someone who attempted it a few years ago, but with the ever changing conditions in this areas, talking to the locals is probably the safest bet.
Cissa
Joined Jun 21, 2013
341 points
Apr 14, 2014
John Collis wrote:
The page above says that it goes at WI4+ M4, is that accurate? Seems too easy for a route on that peak, but I can't seem to find any other info on it anywhere.

That actually seems kind of hard if you've got some altitude, clunkier boots, a heavy pack, maybe less than ideal pro and the situation where, if you get hurt, the road is a lot farther away than it is in Vail and you'll likely have to do a Joe Simpson to save your own bacon. That's not to say you shouldn't go for it, just that ratings can be deceiving. The Eiger is only 5.7 right?

Anyways, I know that there's an older issue of Alpinist with a profile on the peak. You won't be able to buy a back print issue, but it may be one of the issues that you can buy a pdf of. Worth checking out at least. I've always thought that it was an absolutely rad looking peak.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
175 points
Jul 16, 2016
Hey All, We just returned from a trip in Peru and spent two weeks in the Santa Cruz Valley, so I thought I'd post a short update. The 2016 season has been dry on the back of El Nino, and most of the usual ice lines were not climbable, at least not as ice lines. The Italian Buttress would still climb well,but the lower portions would be harder than usual. The glacier is retreating a bit but access to the base of the mountain is still straight forward. We climbed the first 5 pitches of The Guides Route to access the southeast ridge, then dropped down to the east to climb a new route on the East face (the image in the thread above is the south face, not the east face). Our route was mostly rock, as anticipated. Our friends continued on the guides route to the summit and encountered moderate alpine ice leading to steep and difficult cornices. They started on the French Army route but with the lack of ice, established a new line/variation on the mixed ridge to the left.

Taulliraju is an awesome mountain, difficult, but not too difficult and there is still plenty of scope for new liens on all aspects. Carrying a pair of rock shoes is advisable and take at least 10 days to acclimitize to 6000m by climbing some of the other nearby classic mountains such as Artesonraju and Alpamayo. Keep an open mind about your objective.
Steve Skelton
From Lyttelton, New Zealand
Joined Sep 15, 2008
150 points


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