Beta on Little Finger in Adirondacks (lake george area)

I am hoping to get on little finger tomorrow but have not been able to get ahold of a guide book. Sounds like they are coming out with a new one in a month or so and no one is selling the old one. I am wanting to climb little finger on Rogers Rock in the lake george area. I already have a tandem kayak lined up to get to the base of the climb. The description here on MP is pretty vague, it just says "follow the crack system". I assume that it really is that easy, but does anyone have any beta on where to set up belays? specific gear requirements? do you rappel or walk off? how long are the pitches? etc etc. Thanks for any help, Im staying in Burlington and went to Gear-X and all the guys there were super helpful but none had ever done the climb so could not give any specifics about it. Anyway, thanks for any help in advance and I hope to be able to get on it tomorrow and have a good time.

Photocodo

The boat landing is obvious. Be careful...the rocks in the water are slippery! There is room enough on a small area of land for several boats to be pulled up and out of the water. From this area go right and then up a short scramble (~20 feet). The crack of Little Finger will be obvious from there. There are three pitches, all long. Pitch 1 is 180 feet and the belay has a pin/piton but will require some gear of your own. Pitch 2 is 130 feet, gear belay. Pitch 3 is 180 feet to a fixed belay. The descent is a rappel, I think 2 ropes are needed for the rappel or that's how I've always done it.

Bring lots of small gear, the long pitches eat it up.

Its a great outing. Have fun!

The start is pretty obvious once you get there, it's by a black streak and there are several large boulders near the start.

I climbed there last week- you should know that there was a small wasp nest at the top of the second pitch, under the overhang where the direct finish (5.7 variation) breaks off and goes up and the regular route goes out to the right. It's in a really nice looking undercling that you might want to use--- so look out for that.

Also- remember to bring 2 ropes for the rappel if possible! It makes life so much easier.

It is the most obvious crack right up the middle of the cliff. it has a small overlap 2/3rd of the way up. the direct finish has better gear INMOP than the right hand finish.

Looking to get on this in early October! Raised in the daks, but moved away some time ago, I have been wanting to get back and out to Rogers since hearing about the climbing. I am trying to climb/paddle light but recognize the lengthy pitches. People keep posting that it gobbles up small gear, anything I should consider bringing doubles in and what should I leave in time out in my trunk? I want to get a nice early start, any recommendation where I may be able to rent a canoe the day before/what places should I rent or not rent from. Thanks.

ps- where should I plan on grabbing a post pint?

Kyle,

Bring 70M doubles if you have them. Don't bring the number 3 C4.

You can get a canoe at Brookwood. It's a couple minutes north of the campground on your left. I never see canoes on the rack past Labor Day but they're open til October. I would call them and see what's up. Snug Harbor in Hague rents motor boats if Brookwood is done for the season.

If you drive five minutes south to Hague check out the Firehouse. Great food and drinks.

The new guidebook is available now at the right places. I know the mountaineer in Keene has it.

A kayak would work too, right?

scienceguy288 wrote:A kayak would work too, right?

Just stack them on top each other. There's room for maybe three canoes. Don't leave it in the water. The waves pick up in the afternoon and your craft could catch a beating.

Only a fool would trust Littlefinger.

This is way too late to help the OP, but for anyone else reading the thread for beta:

I attempted to do Little finger on Memorial Day (just over a month ago), and long story short, we had to bail after my partner lead the first pitch. The rock was waay too hot. Like, burning hot. It was so bad, that my other partner who was belaying (we were a party of 3), and I were contemplating climbing in belay gloves, and/or taping up our fingers. I was contemplating the insulation value of chalk..

That said, we got a very late start for the season- it was almost 8:00am when my friend started leading the first pitch, and by then the rock was burning hot. Another party rapped down just as we started. I'm impressed my friend even managed to finish the pitch (and even more impressed that he downclimbed it after.. he didn't want to bail on gear).

Bottom line, if you want to do this climb in the summer, you need to start in the dark and finish very early, and/or it should be a very cloudy day..

One last thing- our new 60m rope was stretched to the end at end of the first pitch, the leader actually ran out of rope when he climbed just a few moves past it. I suppose that's a good thing, but nevertheless I might bring a 70m next time..

Also, we rented canoes from Dockside Landing Marina, about an hour's paddle south of Little Finger (would be faster with experienced paddlers who are in sync). They were super friendly and helpful, and they also are willing to drop you off and pickup with a motorboat.

However we realized after, that it's much cheaper and closer to get canoes from the campground nearby. I'm not sure if you can rent canoes if you're not staying at the campground, you might be able to if you rent the night before.

Dan Africk wrote: However we realized after, that it's much cheaper and closer to get canoes from the campground nearby. I'm not sure if you can rent canoes if you're not staying at the campground, you might be able to if you rent the night before.

Day visitors to the campground can rent canoes. Not too expensive.

Dan Africk wrote:This is way too late to help the OP, but for anyone else reading the thread for beta: I attempted to do Little finger on Memorial Day (just over a month ago), and long story short, we had to bail after my partner lead the first pitch. The rock was waay too hot. Like, burning hot. It was so bad, that my other partner who was belaying (we were a party of 3), and I were contemplating climbing in belay gloves, and/or taping up our fingers. I was contemplating the insulation value of chalk.. That said, we got a very late start for the season- it was almost 8:00am when my friend started leading the first pitch, and by then the rock was burning hot. Another party rapped down just as we started. I'm impressed my friend even managed to finish the pitch (and even more impressed that he downclimbed it after.. he didn't want to bail on gear). Bottom line, if you want to do this climb in the summer, you need to start in the dark and finish very early, and/or it should be a very cloudy day.. One last thing- our new 60m rope was stretched to the end at end of the first pitch, the leader actually ran out of rope when he climbed just a few moves past it. I suppose that's a good thing, but nevertheless I might bring a 70m next time..

I'm not sure your experience was typical. I did this on a warm August day last year. Got climbing ~9am and rock was ok. I certainly wouldn't do this on an exceptionally hot day or in the middle of the day, but I don't think you have to start in the dark either. In fact by the time other parties arrived (including guided parties), it was ~1030-11am. Climbing this makes for an awesome day out. Wouldn't want to discourage other parties from trying it!

Dan Africk wrote:However we realized after, that it's much cheaper and closer to get canoes from the campground nearby. I'm not sure if you can rent canoes if you're not staying at the campground, you might be able to if you rent the night before.

~$10 per day from the Rogers Rock campground. I think they open ~9-10am so If you want to get an early start you'll have to shell out the extra $10 for the previous day. It's a very casual 15-20min paddle from the campground.

Mrkb3 wrote: I'm not sure your experience was typical. I did this on a warm August day last year. Got climbing ~9am and rock was ok. I certainly wouldn't do this on an exceptionally hot day or in the middle of the day, but I don't think you have to start in the dark either. In fact by the time other parties arrived (including guided parties), it was ~1030-11am. Climbing this makes for an awesome day out. Wouldn't want to discourage other parties from trying it! ~$10 per day from the Rogers Rock campground. I think they open ~9-10am so If you want to get an early start you'll have to shell out the extra $10 for the previous day. It's a very casual 15-20min paddle from the campground.

It was 90 degrees all throughout Memorial Day weekend. Not great Roger's Rock weather. I remember some guys went to the Creature Wall or Spanky's and some of us went fishing.

If anyone needs a canoe early. Try Brookwood campground, 1 minute north and see what they are willing to do.

Bill Kirby wrote: It was 90 degrees all throughout Memorial Day weekend. Not great Roger's Rock weather. I remember some guys went to the Creature Wall or Spanky's and some of us went fishing.

Good point. Use your judgement.