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Beta for Leavenworth Area

Original Post
Ben Ricketts · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 41

Heading up to a wedding near Leavenworth and we are are going to have about a week to climb and explore the area. I have found tons of trad routes to check out, but I also wondering about sport areas. Does any one know any good sport climbing crags in the area with routes from 5.10 - 5.12?

Also any recommended rest day activities would be appreciated,(ie: must do hikes or must do beer drinking establishments).

Thanks
Ben

Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

Do Das Musak on castle rock 11d, it's high up on my list.
mountainproject.com/v/washi…

Sherri Lewis · · Sequim, WA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 316

For sport routes at that grade, you'll get more bang for your buck in Index. For trad too. Just go and you'll understand.

Route list and topos:
stanford.edu/~clint/index/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6posX5DPDs&feature=related

Michal · · Index WA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 1,293

rattlesnake rock for face, bathtub dome for bolted slab, cantaloupe island slab, drip wall for harder stuff. get trad gear man

Andrew B. · · WA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 30

If you're wanting some easier sport multi-pitch you should check out Condorphamine Addiction (10b 7 pitches). It's a nice way to spend half a day.

Rafe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 510

If you've never been, go to Pearly Gates. There's bolted, mixed, and trad all on a very nice wall...some of the best routes in Leavenworth. 5.8 - 11.d

Also check out Alphabet Rock. It's roadside and has 6 high quality, fun routes. 3 bolted, 3 trad. .8+ - .11c

___

I would steer you towards Index as well. World class granite routes. Sport, trad, single pitch, multipitch...whatever you want on steep, excellent rock.

BirdDog · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 5

When you're in L-worth drop into Der Sportsman or L-worth Mtn Sports and grab Viktor Kramer's new L-worth guide. Lot's of stuff nearby, some sport routes. Also Frenchman'd Coulee south of the town of Quincy has lot's of .10/.11 sports routes, about an 1 1/2 hrs from L-worth. L-worth sport routes are mostly slab, Frenchman's are face and crack climbs.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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