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Best/Good Power Drills?
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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Oct 10, 2011

I am looking for recomendation for good drills for bolting granite. Specific model name/numbers would be helpful so I can try to find one for a good price. Also if you know please let me know the average # of 3/8"x3" holes one battery will drill in granite.

EDIT: I am looking for a rotary hammer not hammer drill. I got a hammer drill and tried using it...FAIL! Hahaha.

Thanks In Advance!


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By reaganchung
Oct 10, 2011

I have had good use with a Bosch 11536C. This is the compact lighter version, there is also a heavier duty version that is nice as well. Keep in mind that there is a difference between Rotary hammer and hammer drill.


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Oct 10, 2011

dostol wrote:
I cringe ever so slightly at the phrase "bolting granite."

I hear the new alien replacements are gonna be sooooooooooo rad you can use them to protect featureless slabs.

Don't be a fool.


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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Phoenix, AZ
Oct 10, 2011
Belay

dostol wrote:
I want one of those explosive bolt guns from "Cliffhanger". Where do you get those?

Right here , but I wouldn't want to hang off of one of those anchors. ;)


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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Oct 10, 2011

DAMN that thing actually uses gun powder to fire the bolt in!

Seriously recomendations for good rotary hammers?


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By Ben Sachs
Oct 10, 2011

Never seen anyone else use one but I have a 24v Makita rotary hammer that I really like. It's proven very durable. They make a newer model with Li-Ion batteries that looks really nice.

EDIT: In retrospect the OP is either a troll or a totally novice bolter. Go find someone with knowledge before you destroy perfectly good rock faces.


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By BScallout
Oct 10, 2011

Thank god you live in AZ. Seriously. You don't know what drill to even use. Sorry, but maybe get a mentor or someone who knows WTF they are doing to show you b/f you go "bolt granite". I like the peanut gallery chipping in with the ones they use to fasten studs to the foundation, great advice happening here. Yeah go with Dewalt.


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By danny m
From All over
Oct 10, 2011
Ancient Art, UT

dostol wrote:
+1


+2

But once you figure it all out my vote is for the Hilti TE 6-A probably the best drill on the market. I have used both the Bosch and Hilti extensively and the Hilit wins hands down IMO but thatís not to say the Bosch is a bad drill. If you can get a Bosch for a good price get it!. Anyways I get about 35 holes per battery with it in granite. Hilti drills are pricy but youíre paying for the quality, these drill are extremely durable and reliable IMO much more than Bosch, yeah some may say Bosch drills are a little bit faster or you will get a couple more holes per battery but in the long run a Hilti drill will outlast and out drill a Bosch. Plus Hilti has very good customer service and Border Construction right off the freeway just north of Miracle Mile is also very good about helping people out with Hilti products ask for Tadd he should be able to order you a drill and bolts.

Also when you bolt please use Powerís Power bolts AKA Rawl 5 piece bolts (Copper State right behind Border can order you these). Or Hilti KB3ís (Border can order you these). Please do not use Homedepot bolts


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By J. Thompson
From denver, co
Oct 10, 2011
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.

Bolting isn't rocket science.
Just remember if you are doing new routes with bolts, you need to be a craftsmen. You are creating something that other people will see/use. Ask yourself; is this line worth the bolts? Am I putting the bolts in the best possible place? Am I using quality bolts that will last a long time?

I have a the Hilti TE-6A. 36Volt. It's super charged with 3X12Volt 7 amp hour batteries. I've no Idea how many holes I can get out of it.

I drilled a bunch of holes in a super shitty talus area once to see( it was very hard basalt)...I gave up when I reached 20, 1/2"X4.5" holes and it wasn't even slowing down.

I'll sell you that drill for $325 plus shipping.

josh


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Oct 10, 2011
Stabby

Josh- I don't even need a drill and am tempted to jump on that deal


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By J. Thompson
From denver, co
Oct 10, 2011
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.

Mike Lane wrote:
Josh- I don't even need a drill and am tempted to jump on that deal



It's a smoking deal.
I'm thinking of sacrificing the quality of this drill for something alittle bit lighter.

Although I did just use my friends Ryobi 18 volt non SDS drill the other day on lead. That thing weighs about the same as a #6 camalot and I easily got 5X3", 3/8's holes in sandstone. It was nice to lead with and only costs $70. But for harder rock I think it would be wanting...

josh


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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Oct 10, 2011

Just because I am asking for info on drills doesn't mean I don't know my head from my ass it means I don't like my legs going numb while hanging in a harness hand drilling bolts that take 1-1.5hrs per hole. I only use the proper hardware, and contact the developers of a crag and get their blessing before adding anything so STFU. Thank god all you pretentious SOB's live in CO not AZ.


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By danny m
From All over
Oct 11, 2011
Ancient Art, UT

Nick,

$325 is a great deal for a TE 6-A. If you are serious about getting a drill that is an awsome price. I am not to sure about the "turbo" battery setup it sound heavy, but if it comes with the OEM Hilti batteries also that is a steel. Even if the batteries are bad you can have them rebuilt at Batteries Plus think they charg around $100-$150. I had one done at the Batteries Plus by Summit Hut on Wetmore so know they can do it.


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Oct 12, 2011
Stoked...

I own the Bosch 11536VSR 36V - the thing drills holes in bullet granite like its butter, 30sec for 7inch hole. At 9lbs it's a tad heavy for lead... There's also the Bosch 11536C-1 36V which is like 6 lbs.

I would def go with the 36V Lion if you can... amazing drill times and lots of holes!

This site usually has good deals and some refurbished ones cheap. Got my 11536VSR with two LI new batteries, charger, and case for $400 even.

www.cpotools.com/bosch-cordless-rotary-and-demolition-hammer>>>


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By C Travis
From Fort Collins, CO
Oct 12, 2011
Uploaded for the purposes of a profile pic. Grandmother Boulders, NC (2006)

Problem Solved! ;)

In all seriousness, I have nothing worthwhile to add to the discussion. Just saw one of these in action a while ago and thought it was funny. It DID rip right through some stuff though.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 12, 2011
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

danny m wrote:
Nick, $325 is a great deal for a TE 6-A. If you are serious about getting a drill that is an awsome price. I am not to sure about the "turbo" battery setup it sound heavy, but if it comes with the OEM Hilti batteries also that is a steel.


You can easily make smaller batteries using smaller cells. Originally I made two for that drill, one with three 4.5 amp/hr lead acid gell cells and I think the other was 1.5 amp/hr cells. The smaller battery was pretty light.

Anyway, you can of course just splurge and get the stock battery or find some lithium cells.


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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Oct 12, 2011

Thanks to everyone who gave useful advice. I Actually found a nice deal on a bulldog that is already converted to run off SLA cells. So feel free to jump on the drill offered in this thread.


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By J. Thompson
From denver, co
Oct 12, 2011
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.

NickMartel wrote:
Thank god all you pretentious SOB's live in CO not AZ.



I was trying to be encouraging.

If you look back you'll notice that the folks who were being "pretentious SOB's" ...aren't from CO.

Enjoy your new drill! Go put up some cool shit!

josh


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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Oct 13, 2011

Thanks. I understand that when a young climber expresses interest in doing FA's (especially if they use bolts) that some people freak out. Let me assure people that I understand the gravity of the decision to place a bolt. I climb trad as much as I do sport and will only be bolting if necessary (the bolts I have placed have all been hand drilled to this point. This is an awesome apprenticeship as it makes you really think about where/how many bolts to place as each one takes 1-2 hours). I have contacted the developers of the areas I am thinking of working on and gotten their blessing to add my routes ect... I also am someone who believes in and enjoys mixed routes so if some of a route needs bolts but other parts take gear then only the needed bolts will be going in.


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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Oct 13, 2011

And I apologize for my SOB comment. I should have just let the haters I knew would respond and their hate just roll of my back, alas I am human.


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By Paul Gagner
Oct 13, 2011

This one:

Lithium battery Bosch. 25-30 3/8" holes / battery pack, and light enough to climb with if you have to.

FA in the Fisher Towers
FA in the Fisher Towers


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By J. Thompson
From denver, co
Oct 13, 2011
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.

NickMartel wrote:
And I apologize for my SOB comment. I should have just let the haters I knew would respond and their hate just roll of my back, alas I am human.


We all are.

Cheers!

josh


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By ClimbBaja
Oct 14, 2011

Perhaps I can clear up some misinformation posted earlier. NickMartel has it correctly. Not surprisingly, there is a case of mistaken identity, probably due to similarity in terminology and misleading advertising by manufacturers.

A "rotary hammer drill" also informally known as "rotohammer" is exactly what Nick needs.
A rotohammer typically has an electro-pneumatic mechanism (a piston creates the in-out thrust), SDS (or sometimes a spline type) chuck, and is heavier than a "hammer drill." Also more expensive.

"Hammer drills" are generally light duty, with a percussive mechanical action created by cams (the in-out thrust is directly linked to the motor). Most (or all?) have a light-duty chuck for standard straight-shank masonry bits. They are suitable for the homeowner who wants to make a few holes in a concrete block wall to hang a plant or light fixture. Definitely not suitable for climbers' needs. These may look like the typical homeowner's portable electric drill, with an extra selector switch.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Oct 14, 2011
Stabby

Paul Gagner wrote:
This one: Lithium battery Bosch. 25-30 3/8" holes / battery pack, and light enough to climb with if you have to.

The 36V Bosch lithium is the drill du jour. Especially if working ground up.


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By ClimbBaja
Oct 14, 2011

dostol,
Do we have it correctly that you are you still defending your position that:
"I would recommend that's it's 1) a hammer drill (obviously)"
and
"It looked like you're still not sure about whether to use a rotary hammer (which is a light version of a jack-hammer) or a hammer drill (which is what you need)"

You still seem to have a lack of understanding about the difference between a "hammer drill" and "rotary hammer drill." Instead of standing by your gut, why not do your own research or read my post, above.
You can try to convince us with how many thousands of holes you've drilled and how fine your gut is.
Why not try to persuade us with facts and then cite your sources. That doesn't mean "Joe" and "Fred" on the jobsite who refer to the tool as a "hammer drill" becuse they don't want to utter the extra syllables of "rotary hammer drill."


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Oct 14, 2011
Stabby

On the job they're called roto-hammers. A hammerdrill is something your little Dewalt or Milwaukee drill comes equipped with. Out climbing we just call it the drill.


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