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Best Winter Bouldering?
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By androo.daveass
From Portland
Oct 1, 2010
Working out the moves on Momma's Boy
Looking for a place to go from Dec 26- Jan 2. What is the best (or your favorite) winter bouldering area in the US?

Pluses:
-Warm/stable weather
-Range of grades (V1-V10)
-Good camping
-Aesthetic setting

Minuses:
-Crap weather
-Required Guides (I'm not interested in Hueco)

Thanks for the the help!

FLAG
By jarthur
From Westminster, CO
Oct 1, 2010
My dogs got ups yo!
Easy - HP40 near Steele, Alabama
Perfect temps for sending those slopey boulder problems.
Warm/Stable Weather - Does that exist that time of year anywhere in the US? I've gone this time of year and it's been great.
Range of grades (V1-V10) - Check
Good Camping - Check. Also has general store with some climbing supplies, food, warm showers, and right next to the boulders.
Aesthetic Setting - Check

FLAG
By Tim Davis
From Atlanta
Oct 1, 2010
jarthur wrote:
Easy - HP40 near Steele, Alabama Perfect temps for sending those slopey boulder problems. Warm/Stable Weather - Does that exist that time of year anywhere in the US? I've gone this time of year and it's been great. Range of grades (V1-V10) - Check Good Camping - Check. Also has general store with some climbing supplies, food, warm showers, and right next to the boulders. Aesthetic Setting - Check


+1

FLAG
By A-Lex
From Santa Rosa, CA
Oct 1, 2010
I don't know. If I lived in Oregon looking for winter bouldering, I would likely not drive cross country.

There is plenty of closer bouldering. The owens valley has some of the best bouldering in the world and its great in winter. I would assume the eastern part of oregon has similar weather in the winter (rain shadow, dry). I would focus on the Southwest. Red Rocks can be good in winter, though it can get unstable weather. Joshua Tree.

I don't know, I don't want to discourage you from going to the southeast, but thats a long way from Oregon....seems like a hassle to me when there is so much great rock in the west.

FLAG
By Evan S
From Erie, CO
Oct 1, 2010
Me, of course
yeah, Arizona or SoCal would be my choice living on this side of the country, or SW Utah. I know the weather can be crappy at times, but you can't plan for that months in advance. If I were you, I'd keep an open mind and hit up the south west wherever it is the dryest. Depending on conditions, the front range here can be spectacular that time of year. Was it last year it was like 70 degrees in January? or the year before, they've all started to blend together.

FLAG
By AWinters
Administrator
From the Shire
Oct 1, 2010
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks
bishop.

AESTHETIC SETTING

FLAG
By Gregg
From Englewood
Oct 1, 2010
Horse Pens 40 and Little Rock City......No Question

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By Jasmine Kall
Oct 1, 2010
Getting ready to climb!
Jtree!

FLAG
 
By Andrew Shipley
Oct 1, 2010
Zion
south west utah no doubt great weather tons of bouldering. go to the desert rat and they can point you around or let you look at the book. you can camp directly in moe's valley for free. have a good trip

Andrew

climbersconnect.com

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By Choss Chasin'
From Torrance, CA
Oct 1, 2010
Black Mountain
Joshua Tree
-weather - usually great (a little cold and windy sometimes)!
-range of grades - has it all
-Camping - Eh, a little overcrowded but there are options
-Setting - Beautiful
-Guide - Unnecessary but useful

Bishop
-weather - Can snow and be windy but usually nice and cool
-range of grades - from V0- to Vkick yer ass
-Camping - Gorgeous setting and abundance of sites/options
-Setting - Amazing!!!
-Guide - Once you get to the areas you don't need a guide unless your blind
-minuses - A potential clusterf*** of irritating, showboating, goons (see The Hulk, Serengeti and The Ice Caves).



FLAG
By The Hippy
From Boulder, Co
Oct 1, 2010
+1 one for Bishop. The hotsprings make the long winter nights suck a lot less! Oh yeah, the bouldering is pretty good too. And, it's not too far from Portland.

FLAG
By androo.daveass
From Portland
Oct 2, 2010
Working out the moves on Momma's Boy
Dang, all of your wonderful and varied recommendations are what I didn't want to hear...

Basically, I've had bad luck (cold/windy/snowy) with winter trips to Red Rocks and JTree to climb routes, so I was thinking that maybe I could go on a bouldering trip to somewhere different this winter and have the promise of better weather.

I was already trying to decide between HP40, Bishop, and Southern Utah and was hoping that everyone would convince me that one had far superior weather to the rest! Well, at least I know that there's options! Thanks for the replies, I guess I'll have to chance it on the weather no matter where I go...

FLAG
By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Oct 2, 2010
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim
Bishop offers a lot of variety during the winter (I'm a bit biased since I live here). There are several bouldering areas, plus the Gorge for sport, Lee Vining for ice and, Mammoth for skiiing (though a zoo that time of year). The town also has more redeeming qualities than those near J-tree, and how can you beat bouldering with snow-covered peaks as your backdrop? High desert winter weather can be somewhat of a crap shoot, but I'd go with granite over sandstone for less wait time after a rain.

FLAG
By Tom Moulin
Oct 2, 2010
Although not quite on the same scale as Bishop, you may want to consider the bouldering and rock climbing in Red Rocks and Southern Nevada.

There is loads of problems, the weather is a bit warmer than Bishop, and the rock is typically more friendly on the skin.

There is a new comprehensive guidebook available for the bouldering. (snellpress.com)

Ethan Pringle wrote a short review of the guidebook: ethanpringle.com

Tom Moulin

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By Said
From Boulder, Co
Oct 2, 2010
Top of the 3rd pitch of Touchstone at Zion NP.
How come no one has suggested Hueco Tanks? Was it not once considered World Class?

Yeah it's a shit show especially during Christmas Break. Yeah there's all sorts of red tape and hoops to jump through in order to climb there. Yeah you have to deal with the inflated ego of every number chasing climber if you stay at the rock ranch, but it's the Tanks.

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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Oct 2, 2010
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
androo.daveass wrote:
I was thinking that maybe I could go on a bouldering trip to somewhere different this winter and have the promise of better weather.



Hueco is virtually guaranteed to have bomber weather.

FLAG
 
By Vic Lawson
From Bishop, CA
Oct 2, 2010
Me on top of South Howser Tower after climbing the Beckey-Chouinard.
Bishop. Duh.

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By JamesD
Oct 2, 2010
Another vote for HP40 and LRC. So good that I plan on flying back there (from CO) this winter.

FLAG
By Dan Carter
From Las Cruces, NM
Nov 2, 2010
Hueco is pretty great right now. The weather is superb all winter long. It will probably be a lot busier during the dates of your trip though. People really start to pour in around Christmas Break. Most of the time tours are not too hard to hop on. Rarely are they full and you can meet a lot of folks that way. North mountain on the other hand is a bit more difficult to get on when without reservations when it's busy.

There is free camping just past the rock ranch on blm land. Also, there is good limestone sport climbing within a couple hours of hueco and superb, granite, adventure, trad climbing in the Organ mountains. On the hot springs note, there are some up in truth or consequences, new mexico for those days off.

Having lived in the south most of my life, the winters are nice but the threat of rain or an ice storm is always possible.

Myself, I'm heading to bishop.

FLAG
By Max Johnson
From Los Alamitos, CA
Nov 2, 2010
Adam Winters wrote:
bishop. AESTHETIC SETTING


+1

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By Kevin Denson
Aug 25, 2011
Although flights can be pricey once you are in the southeast and have a rental car that's pretty much all you need. At HP40 you can rent pads (although not your stiff organic there with nice landings it works), and there is also a new hostel called the crash pad in Chattanooga where you can get to LRC(stonefort) or any dayton river bouldering. If its not to cold and you have time Little river Canyon, AL for both routes and bouldering.

FLAG
By freezeus
From Pittsfield, VT
Aug 25, 2011
HP 40...absolutely amazing!!! Cheap flights to Atlanta, cheap rental car, cheap food, great atmosphere! The climbing...incredible, pocket problems, crazy slopers, fun roof problems, crimps, slabs...it has everything and you are camping right there!

FLAG


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