I was wondering what would be the preferred method of self anchoring at the top of a route once its ready to be cleaned.
I have only been climbing for about a week outdoors and this is what I've been doing:
1. Two opposing quickdraws on the anchor or chain links. a. In some situations i've extended the quickdraws with quickdraws for more room. 2. Sling in a sliding x configuration with locking biners two on chain or anchor third on belay loop
Is there anything wrong with either of these methods?
The reason I dont use personal anchor devices or daisy chains is because they are expensive and I heard they can fail easily especially if not used right.
After using a Metolious PAS for years I recently switched over to the purcell prusik. Check it out here: www.climbing.com/print/techtips/tech_tips_purcell_prusik/ 7mm dynamic cordelette from bluewater costs about 50¢/foot. Not bad at all.