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Best way to self anchor?



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By Mostafa
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 5, 2011
Red Rocks

I was wondering what would be the preferred method of self anchoring at the top of a route once its ready to be cleaned.

I have only been climbing for about a week outdoors and this is what I've been doing:

1. Two opposing quickdraws on the anchor or chain links.
a. In some situations i've extended the quickdraws with quickdraws for more room.
2. Sling in a sliding x configuration with locking biners two on chain or anchor third on belay loop

Is there anything wrong with either of these methods?

The reason I dont use personal anchor devices or daisy chains is because they are expensive and I heard they can fail easily especially if not used right.


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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Oct 5, 2011
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick

Mostafa wrote:
The reason I dont use personal anchor devices or daisy chains is because they are expensive...


So is a hospital. Go climb with somebody that knows the answers to your questions and can help you learn how to safely climb.


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By Mostafa
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 5, 2011
Red Rocks

expensive and heard they fail. So your telling me they dont?


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Oct 5, 2011
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

This topic has been covered 100 times on this site. Do a little searching.


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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Oct 5, 2011
Mathematical!

After using a Metolious PAS for years I recently switched over to the purcell prusik. Check it out here: www.climbing.com/print/techtips/tech_tips_purcell_prusik/

7mm dynamic cordelette from bluewater costs about 50¢/foot. Not bad at all.


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By Mostafa
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 5, 2011
Red Rocks

Taylor Ogden wrote:
After using a Metolious PAS for years I recently switched over to the purcell prusik. Check it out here: www.climbing.com/print/techtips/tech_tips_purcell_prusik/ 7mm dynamic cordelette from bluewater costs about 50¢/foot. Not bad at all.



Thanks Taylor I think I'll give that a try.


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Oct 5, 2011
Colonel Mustard

How about tied nylon webbing and a two biners? Pretty cheap and effective.


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By NCRob83
From Chapel Hill, NC
Apr 11, 2012
Whipping on the redpoint crux of " The Theater Of Pain " 5.13b Cooks Wall, NC

You use anchors? I thought rings were finger sized for a reason?


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Apr 11, 2012

really, you brought this thread back for that Rob?


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