Best System for cleaning a pitch while rope soloing

So, went out and did my first ever multi-pitch route with my silent partner. After the first pitch I felt like I had my system for leading super dialed. But when it came time to rap back down and clean the pitch, I felt like I had neither a good system to self belay back up the pitch or to deal with the loops of rope I was bringing up.

What sort of systems do ya'll use for this?

Leave 2 micro traxions on the bottom anchor before the lead and clip the SP to the top after the lead. Rap down and climb back up with the traxions.

Rob P. wrote:Leave 2 micro traxions on the bottom anchor before the lead and clip the SP to the top after the lead. Rap down and climb back up with the traxions.

what are you doing with the loops of rope in this scenario? clipping to your harness? coiling over your shoulders?

Not that I have a ton of mile on my SP, but I rap back down on a separate device, and climb back up with the SP. Low on a pitch it has required a little hand feeding until there is enough rope weight to pull through the device. Eventually when there is too much rope weight and it is locking up, tie a back-up knot...rinse...repeat as needed. I don't have a better system, so for me the loops of rope are just part of the game just like they are when I lead. Alternatively, if I've got aiders and ascenders with me for the route, I just use those to go back up.

I know that probably wasn't much help, since that is likely what you are already doing.

csproul wrote:Not that I have a ton of mile on my SP, but I rap back down on a separate device, and climb back up with the SP. Low on a pitch it has required a little hand feeding until there is enough rope weight to pull through the device. Eventually when there is too much rope weight and it is locking up, tie a back-up knot...rinse...repeat as needed. I don't have a better system, so for me the loops of rope are just part of the game just like they are when I lead. Alternatively, if I've got aiders and ascenders with me for the route, I just use those to go back up. I know that probably wasn't much help, since that is likely what you are already doing.

Yeah, not a ton, but I appreciate your input regardless.

I hate having loops under me... I actually stack my rope in a backpack and feed out slack through a biner clipped to the shoulder strap while leading to avoid those. I'm sure that in a lot of places (with granite) the loops aren't as much of an issue. But in Eldo, the rock is such that there's just a ton of stuff for the loops to get caught on.

I think the main frustration I had was that I was just using my atc in guide mode off of my belay loop to self belay back up the pitch, so using something that feeds more smoothly like a Duck, mini-trax or even a gri-gri would help

Why TR with the ATC in guide mode if you've got your SP? I think self-belaying in guide mode is probably the most annoying thing I've ever done.

On another note... when leading, do you have any backup knots between your backpack and your SP? If so, do you tie them on the fly as you're climbing? I like the idea of having a smooth feed out of the pack but I feel like the backup knots--while a pain--are pretty important.

Scott Scharfenberg wrote:Why TR with the ATC in guide mode if you've got your SP? I think self-belaying in guide mode is probably the most annoying thing I've ever done. On another note... when leading, do you have any backup knots between your backpack and your SP? If so, do you tie them on the fly as you're climbing? I like the idea of having a smooth feed out of the pack but I feel like the backup knots--while a pain--are pretty important.

I like to have the SP pre-rigged to my anchor so I can immediately start rolling when I finish cleaning the pitch.

With the backpack, I generally try to keep two backup knots tied, so if I have to untie one during a cruxy section where I don't want to stop and re-tie another I still have a backup in place. If I'm on more chill terrain. When my backup knot is about to hit the SP, I stop, untie it, and then pull about six feet of slack out of the backpack and tie my second backup knot there.

I find that the added hassle of having to tie knots on the fly is nothing compared to getting loops stuck all over the place

The Blueprint Part Dank wrote: With the backpack, I generally try to keep two backup knots tied, so if I have to untie one during a cruxy section where I don't want to stop and re-tie another I still have a backup in place. If I'm on more chill terrain. When my backup knot is about to hit the SP, I stop, untie it, and then pull about six feet of slack out of the backpack and tie my second backup knot there. I find that the added hassle of having to tie knots on the fly is nothing compared to getting loops stuck all over the place

That's awesome, glad to hear that method works. I've been wanting to try it myself for awhile but just haven't been able to get any time on my SP. What's your preferred knot?

I wish I had a better suggestion for self belay while cleaning, but I think it's pretty much all been said already. I'd personally probably go with something like a Gri Gri or Cinch and backup knots if not using the SP. Free climbing on toothed devices gives me the heebie jeebies...

Scott Scharfenberg wrote: That's awesome, glad to hear that method works. I've been wanting to try it myself for awhile but just haven't been able to get any time on my SP. What's your preferred knot? I wish I had a better suggestion for self belay while cleaning, but I think it's pretty much all been said already. I'd personally probably go with something like a Gri Gri or Cinch and backup knots if not using the SP. Free climbing on toothed devices gives me the heebie jeebies...

I agree about the toothed devices. I'm a HUGE proponent of the King Duck, it uses a camming device as well.

I really enjoy the experience of soloing with the SP in its own way. But if someone else wants to rope up, I'd absolutely take a living partner over the SP. But with my new job I end up with two thursdays off every month, which has given me more of a reason to put the time in.

I generally just tie an overhand knot, it's the easiest to tie with one hand and my teeth

I did some aggresive drop tests with a micro-traxion, and it left me feeling comfortable TR-soloing with a toothed device:

mountainproject.com/v/quick…

The Blueprint Part Dank wrote: What sort of systems do ya'll use for this?

A mini-trax if free climbing back up.

I have two Micro Traxions that I TR solo with: they are awesome. Their teeth are irrelevant. If you ever hurt your rope with one, let alone sheath it, you made a major mistake and earned it. Your SP and Traxions rope should be beefy anyway: the teeth won't hurt it.

I just got a Silent Partner. I don't like it for TR at all so far: mainly because I made myself test it on TR by pitching off at the anchors: the rope whizzed through that thing for 20' until my backup clove hitch on a locker caught me. Exciting!

I'm sure I did something wrong, but damn, I really *thought* I had it set up right. Indeed. It had locked up just before (and it caught my lead fall test just fine). I had triple checked everything. Maybe there just wasn't enough of a jerk in the TR fall to lock the clutch. I dunno.

So I'm thinking I'll be jugging back up weighted ropes (I'll probably do more aid than free with the thing), or use my Traxions until I feel a little more confident with the Silent Partner. I hate the backup knots, but I sure as all ain't gonna dispense with them now!

It has made me realize my jugging skills need a lot of work, too.