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The Balcony
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Best Seat In The House 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: James Gose
Page Views: 8,519
Submitted By: Jonathan Petsch on Nov 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (110)
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Best Seat In The House. 5.9+


Follows the left side of the arete. The crux is at the beginning, and it would probably be a good idea to stick clip the first bolt for the first couple of times you do the route. Easier to go a little around the right at the crux than straight up. The climb gets it's name from the gorgeous view of the Clear Creek and Obed Rivers


The balcony is and obvious slab facing toward the trail. a defining feature for Best Seat is a large rectangular hole in the rock. the start of Best Seat is near the base of the large tree at the rightmost end of the balcony. You might find this tree useful to chimey up against to stick clip the first bolt before climbig the crux


sport route: bolts about every 8 feet

Photos of Best Seat In The House Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: BSITH
Rock Climbing Photo: Also to the anchors
Also to the anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of Best Seat. The last third of this ...
Near the top of Best Seat. The last third of this ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat enjoying the 'Best Seat in the House'
Pat enjoying the 'Best Seat in the House'
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the crux! Copyright Dennis Sprinkle
Working the crux! Copyright Dennis Sprinkle
Rock Climbing Photo: Takin in the view
Takin in the view

Comments on Best Seat In The House Add Comment
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By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Mar 16, 2012

The view from the top and position bump this from one star to two. The climbing itself is pretty forgettable.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is an excellent line, makes for a highly memorable lead! It was occupied all day on my first trip to the Obed, so I was determined I'd get on it this time, and it was worth the wait.
By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Oct 15, 2012

I agree with John on this one. The view from the top was spectacular but not all that different from the view above Spawn and Shadowhawk, both of which i thought had better climbing.
By Travis Griggs
Mar 8, 2013

I've climbed this route 5 or 6 times, and it's one of my favorite moderates at the Obed. The crux is right off the ground, and a steep dropoff to the right of the belay makes it a good candidate for a stick clip. The easiest beta I've found is to trend up and right to a small alcove/ledge on the arete. From there,move onto the left face for a string of long reaches and balancy moves on positive (but thin enough to keep it interesting) holds to the cleanest topout in the canyon.

For a change of pace, I recommend belaying the second up from the top and taking a few minutes to enjoy the scenery.
By EthanC
Jun 17, 2014

Pretty forgettable climbing, and view from the top of "Spawn" is better if you can do it.
By Eli Buzzell
Apr 22, 2015

Do not forget to top out, it is the reason why this route is so good!

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