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Best Rock Climbing Area Camping?
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Jun 7, 2011
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I saw this link to an article about the best camping spots for America's climbing areas. I can't help but notice this is a very limited list. There are so many good climbing areas with great camping. Anyone got any favorites?

My list:
Turkey Rocks (CO)
Shelf Road (CO)
City of Rocks (ID)
Indian Creek (UT)
Enchanted Tower (NM)
Leavenworth (WA)
jmapping
From Lakewood, co
Joined Sep 10, 2008
182 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Mt. Evans
Wombat wrote:
I saw this link to an article about the best camping spots for America's climbing areas. I can't help but notice this is a very limited list. There are so many good climbing areas with great camping. Anyone got any favorites? My list: Turkey Rocks (CO) City of Rocks (CO) Shelf Road (CO) Indian Creek (UT) Enchanted Tower (NM) Leavenworth (WA)


New River Gorge (WV)
Banks Lake (Wa)
Andrew Shoemaker
From Olympia, WA
Joined May 30, 2011
288 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Mt. Evans
And, btw, City of Rocks is in Idaho not Colorado Andrew Shoemaker
From Olympia, WA
Joined May 30, 2011
288 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Stabby
Lime Creek needs to be on the list. The camping is better than the climbing. Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
839 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning #1 of 25
Mike Lane wrote:
Lime Creek needs to be on the list. The camping is better than the climbing.

+1.
Mike, have you been out there yet this season? I've been meaning to take a drive out.

I'd like to add Unaweep, the "non private" land left off the divide road is quite a pleasent spot to camp.
T.Dailey
From Avon
Joined Oct 28, 2008
94 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
Not sure what the criteria is but I love 11 mile canyon. If you like to fish it can't be beat. Great hiking. You will not be alone however Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
295 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Cutout from a larger map illustrating accessibilit...
Andrew Shoemaker wrote:
And, btw, City of Rocks is in Idaho not Colorado


Good catch.
jmapping
From Lakewood, co
Joined Sep 10, 2008
182 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Cutout from a larger map illustrating accessibilit...
Rick Blair wrote:
Not sure what the criteria is...


Good point. The article broke it down into a couple categories. My choices were for all around good time. However, if I were to be more specific...

My list:
Turkey Rocks (CO) - quiet and free
Shelf Road (CO) - scenic and cheap
City of Rocks (ID) - scenic and convenient
Indian Creek (UT) - scenic, remote, free, and lawless
Enchanted Tower (NM) - remote
Leavenworth (WA) - scenic
jmapping
From Lakewood, co
Joined Sep 10, 2008
182 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Hey there!
The Gunks!

Oh wait you said best camping. Never mind.
Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Joined Apr 19, 2010
2,010 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Mt. Evans
Ive only been to a handful of these places but i would say Leavenworth is my favorite...not too crowded on weekdays, beautiful scenery, and yes there is free camping on the other side of icicle creek across from the pay campground. Andrew Shoemaker
From Olympia, WA
Joined May 30, 2011
288 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Cutout from a larger map illustrating accessibilit...
Keep em coming and I'll map em!!! But only if we get enough to be interesting.

What we have so far:
Turkey Rocks (CO) - quiet and free
Shelf Road (CO) - scenic and cheap
City of Rocks (ID) - scenic and convenient
Indian Creek (UT) - scenic, remote, free, and lawless
Enchanted Tower (NM) currently debatable - remote
Leavenworth (WA) - scenic
Tres Piedras (NM)
Unaweep (CO)
11 Mile Canyon (CO)
Lime Creek (CO)
Maple Canyon (UT) - convenient and plush
jmapping
From Lakewood, co
Joined Sep 10, 2008
182 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Best climbing pants EVER
Add Roger's Campground to the list at New River Gorge, WV. Very similar to Miguel's - fairly cheap and great party scene. If you want to avoid the scene, head over to Chestnut Creek which is just a couple miles up the road and offers private campsites, private showers, and only about $3 more per night. Jon H
From Boulder
Joined Nov 24, 2009
113 points
Jun 7, 2011
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I'm jealous, all the camping in CA near the best rock is extremely over crowded. thecornyman
From Oakland, CA
Joined May 18, 2010
150 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at right side of Sun Deck
North rim of the Black Canyon. Where else can you camp a 5min walk to the top of such impressive routes. A great place to get the acrophobia tingle. YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Joined Aug 7, 2003
938 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Mt. Evans
Wombat wrote:
Keep em coming and I'll map em!!! But only if we get enough to be interesting. What we have so far: Turkey Rocks (CO) - quiet and free Shelf Road (CO) - scenic and cheap City of Rocks (ID) - scenic and convenient Indian Creek (UT) - scenic, remote, free, and lawless Enchanted Tower (NM) currently debatable - remote Leavenworth (WA) - scenic Tres Piedras (NM) Unaweep (CO) 11 Mile Canyon (CO) Lime Creek (CO) Maple Canyon (UT) - convenient and plush


Banks Lake in Eastern Wa! Good climbing, gorgeous desert scenery, and never crowded. Also in the area is swimming, hiking, bouldering and fishing.

Squamish, BC
Andrew Shoemaker
From Olympia, WA
Joined May 30, 2011
288 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Mt. Evans
Jon H wrote:
Add Roger's Campground to the list at New River Gorge, WV. Very similar to Miguel's - fairly cheap and great party scene. If you want to avoid the scene, head over to Chestnut Creek which is just a couple miles up the road and offers private campsites, private showers, and only about $3 more per night.


Rogers is so much fun and you are right there at the Kaymoor Wall!!
Andrew Shoemaker
From Olympia, WA
Joined May 30, 2011
288 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
How can Miguels at the Red not be mentioned yet? #1 in the East. As for Midwest, add in Devils Lake, Wisconsin. Great climbs, soothing cool clean lake for swimming,, but camp outside the terribly expensive and hard to reserve -a -spot-state park; go to Green Valley campgrounds. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,099 points
Jun 7, 2011
because miguels, despite the tasty food and awesome scene, is a friggin hole for camping. you couldnt pay me to camp there.

does Canada count? because Squamish is awesome- probably my favorite campground so far.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,392 points
Jun 7, 2011
Cochise Stronghold, AZ Dan Carter
From Las Cruces, NM
Joined Jan 29, 2008
285 points
Jun 7, 2011
Penitente, CO
Wild Iris, WY
Smith Rock State Park Bivy site -- solar powered showers!
Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Nov 15, 2004
3,252 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Cutout from a larger map illustrating accessibilit...
This is getting good...

What we have so far - Update:
Turkey Rocks (CO) - quiet and free
Shelf Road (CO) - scenic and cheap
City of Rocks (ID) - scenic and convenient
Indian Creek (UT) - scenic, remote, free, and lawless
Enchanted Tower (NM) currently debatable - remote
Leavenworth (WA) - scenic
Tres Piedras (NM)
Unaweep (CO)
11 Mile Canyon (CO)
Lime Creek (CO)
Maple Canyon (UT) - convenient and plush
New River Gorge (WV) - Rogers Campground and Chestnut Creek Campground
North Rim of the Black Canyon (CO)
Banks Lake (WA) - scenic and no crowds
Squamish (B.C. Canada)
Red River Gorge (KY) - Miguels Campground - Challenged!
Devils Lake (WI) - Green Valley Campgrounds
Cochise Stronghold (AZ)
Penitente Canyon (CO)
Wild Iris (WY)
Smith Rock State Park (OR) - Bivy Site
jmapping
From Lakewood, co
Joined Sep 10, 2008
182 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Slick Rock put in
Under Spearhead. Well maybe 25 years ago. Allen Hill
From FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Joined Jun 12, 2004
1,803 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
John Wilder wrote:
because miguels, despite the tasty food and awesome scene, is a friggin hole for camping. you couldnt pay me to camp there. does Canada count? because Squamish is awesome- probably my favorite campground so far.


I agree, I won't stay at Miguel's anymore. I stayed at Lago Linda's a couple weeks ago and it was much better! LL's is $3 more but has free showers, private sites, and no groups of idiots yelling until 4am.
NickinCO
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
239 points
Jun 7, 2011
Nick Mardirosian wrote:
I agree, I won't stay at Miguel's anymore. I stayed at Lago Linda's a couple weeks ago and it was much better! LL's is $3 more but has free showers, private sites, and no groups of idiots yelling until 4am.


agreed. Linda's is much better. If you climb outside of the southern region, its a bit far, but the scene there is pretty awesome and the quiet is much appreciated when i'm planning on actually climbing the next day!
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,392 points
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: me in la grave with mt blanc some 100 miles in the...
Lovers Leap!!! Rack up and climb. super dave
From las vegas, nv
Joined Sep 9, 2005
36 points
Administrator
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: El Chorro
First order of business: Take Miguel's off the list. It sucks, and there are plenty of threads in which I've explained why.

Roger's at the New has actually been my home a few different times (read: I had a job in Fayetteville). It is NOTHING like Miguel's... but yea there are parties sometimes. Much smaller, friendlier, more laid back community though with a lot more to talk about than what happened at "the lode."

Indian Creek is kind of vague. I loved Creek Pasture... Bridger Jack campground was on the mag's list... wombat where do you camp?

+1 for Cochise. Beautiful place to camp, amazing climbing... destination for sure.

Chapel Pond Pass is a favorite of mine even though I've only been once. Excellent access to tons of amazing climbing and always a few locals around to keep you laughing and drinking beer. LOVE the Dacks!
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points


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